Page 208 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Bachman knot

This is believed to be the oldest of the semi-mechanical climbing knots and originated in

Austria. The knot works well on wet or icy ropes and is easier to slide up the rope than the older
Prusik knot, or indeed a Klemheist. Use it on single or double climbing ropes, but only when it
is downloaded; do not use this knot on a traverse rope. It is used in self-rescue situations and to

hoist a casualty by means of a pulley system.

Clip a sling into a screw-gate carabiner (1), then wind it around the main climbing rope in a
descending spiral (2), at the same time enclosing the back bar of the carabiner (3, 4). Load it
downward (5).