Page 206 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Klemheist knot

This is a prusiking knot (occasionally referred to as the Headon knot) that is designed to cope

with a load that pulls directly downward. Do not use it on a traverse rope. It may also be tied in
webbing, but may be more efficient in cord.

Wrap a sling or strop three or four times around the main climbing rope (1, 2), then tuck the lower
bight through the upper one (3) and pull it down to tighten the arrangement (4, 5). Load it

downward; if it tends to slip, add more wrapping turns. When unloaded, it slides upward more
easily than the classic Prusik knot (see page 142).