Page 285 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Tensionless anchor

Another name for this technique might be a “knotless belay.” Rigging a climbing rope in this

way uses friction around a fixed object, while retaining almost 100 percent of the rope’s
unknotted strength. It also has the advantage that it can be removed, a turn at a time, while still
retaining control over the weight of, say, a disabled climber.

With the working end of the rope, take as many turns as required (but no more) to cope with the

load in hand (1). Although this belay is itself knotless, it is vital that the end of the rope should
then be secured to a separate belaying point by means of a bowline (see page 63) or similar handily
tied knot, the end of which should also be backed up (see page 15) or stopped (2). The tensionless
anchor is then ready for use (3).