Page 295 - Geoffrey Budworth, Jason Dalton "The Little Book of Incredibly Useful Knots"

Cordelette anchor

Climbers who belay and remain static, while safeguarding other climbers who are on the move,

must not only keep themselves safe, but also be able to absorb the sudden loading that a slip or
fall by someone else might ultimately impose on the belay. One part of the solution is to share
the load between several anchorage points; the cordelette does this, as well as providing a point

of attachment for the belayed team member.

Thread an endless strop or sling through pre-placed protection devices (1, 2, 3). Pull it into three
finger-like bights, and pinch their meeting point together prior to knotting it (4). Tie an overhand
knot with the six entwined parts, leaving three projecting loops (5).