Page 60 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

TOP
20
2018

We’re hoping that more chefs will find inspiration from
Hong Kong, creating a new kind of gastronomy

One of the most talked-about topics in the eyes, needs nothing more than a razor-thin
dining industry this year was the curious case slice of the most pristine pear as its bedfellow,
of the chef swap. In April, Frenchmen Fabrice the fruit’s gentle sweetness and whisper of
Vulin and Guillaume Galliot officially took up acidity calmly tackling the richness of the
their posts of executive chef—at the other’s liver. It’s hard not to be enamoured by the
restaurant. After the initial bemusement and restraint shown in the plates here; the rather
speculation, it has become apparent that the exceptional desserts by pastry chef Ken
unintentional exchange has done both a world Thomas drive the point home. Like Boutin,
of good. We find Galliot’s cuisine at his new Thomas’ creations are modest in design, but
home of Caprice (page 93) to be even more innovative in execution.
refined than before—as befitting this bastion The evolution of French cuisine has played
of fine French gastronomy, Galliot brings a out in a fascinating way in Hong Kong, with
confidence to the Four Seasons with creations venues such as Serge et le Phoque (page
such as crab laksa with confit egg—a 80), which has just opened a second branch
thoroughly contemporary dish that defies all in London, reminiscent of the bistronomy
expectations of what should be served at a movement in Paris—with approachable
French restaurant. dining that doesn’t sacrifice creativity,
Meanwhile, Vulin—our 2016 Best New and speaks of its time and place. At Serge,
Chef award recipient—has found his own few diners escape without the obligatory
rhythm at The Tasting Room (page 118) in dacquoise for dessert, which has become a
Macau’s City of Dreams. A staunch supporter delicious constant in a world of waxing and
of French produce and classic techniques, waning trends. The rest of the menu is where
Vulin nevertheless champions a new way you can exercise your adventurous side, with
for Gallic gastronomy with his bold flavour dishes ranging from sea bass with mangosteen
pairings born from an international resumé. and wakame to Challandais duck with cloud
For example, Gillardeau oysters, usually ear mushrooms and sakura (quite often,
perfect on their own, are enlivened with rice ingredients are sourced from the Wan Chai
espuma, yuzu-scented vegetables and lardo wet market across the road), all done with
di Colonnata. But don’t be mistaken—the aplomb by chef Nicholas Chew.
Frenchman knows exactly what to do with a We’re hoping that more chefs will find
premium Alexandre Polmard beef tenderloin, inspiration from Hong Kong, creating a new
simply served with delicate soufflé potatoes kind of gastronomy—Daniel Calvert’s use
and classic French Riviera condiments. of a locally grown corn to create his fresh
In the same vein, Nicolas Boutin of polenta with Australian black truffle comes to
Épure (page 93) continues to fine-tune mind. The chef’s inspired neo-bistro cooking
his dishes that astound with their surface- is reason why Belon (page 78) is back on
level simplicity—a piece of foie gras comes the Top 20 list for the second time since it
burnished and caramelised and, in Boutin’s opened. Since taking over from James Henry,

58 | T .DINING 2018