Page 65 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

Goshima Shinya’s Godenya (page 101) is not The disappearance of
the kind of restaurant you stumble across, but stilted, formal service can
make purposeful strides toward, despite it
being hidden down a dark, narrow alleyway. only be welcomed with
Beyond the doors, you’ll find a peaceful shrine open arms—it’s a changing
to the art of sake. Shinya’s menu of genre- of the tides, where serious
skirting creations (a delicate scampi tom
yum goong is one of his specialities) feature gastronomy is no longer
dishes that are each skilfully paired with synonymous with strict
a sake, chilled or warmed to the optimum rules of behaviour
temperature. A meal here is more than just
about eating and drinking—we can learn
much from this master of gastronomy. cross the seas to Macau in an instant—to
Also in the area is modern Japanese dine at Shinji by Kanesaka (page 121), here
izakaya Ronin (page 83), the modish follow- on the list for the second year in a row. Chef
up restaurant by the team behind Yardbird de cuisine Toru Osumi is a true master of the
(which, by the time of going to press, was craft and the omakase menu here is a must.
about to move to its new location in Sheung Osumi’s pacing is impeccable, with each
Wan). Behind the cool, slate-coloured sliding diner’s journey perfectly judged so that every
door is a lengthy room that wouldn’t look out morsel that lands in front of you is perfectly
of place in the trendier part of Ginza, where timed—the hours flow by gently, like a trail
diners sip thin glass tumblers of premium of rich honey. What we also appreciate
small-batch sake, paired with highly inventive, about the Shinji experience is the utter lack
seafood-focused small plates. This is the kind of pretension—Osumi and his comrades are
of place where ingredients are handled just warm and welcoming, dissolving any fears of
enough to coax out their maximum flavour an intimidating atmosphere that can often
without obscuring their essence—the grilled pervade high-end sushi bars.
pike mackerel with a zingy parsley, onion The disappearance of stilted, formal service
and mugi miso topping is one of the best can only be welcomed with open arms—it’s a
mouthfuls we’ve had this year. suggestion of the changing of the tides, where
In the same vein of respecting Japanese serious gastronomy is no longer synonymous
ingredients and techniques, we’re enthused with strict rules of behaviour. At Haku (page
by the unique creations by Max Levy over at 79), helmed by Agustin Balbi (our Best New
Okra in Sai Ying Pun—but it’s his hideaway, Chef awardee in 2015), the atmosphere is
Okra Bar (page 103), situated on the upper akin to that of a lively izakaya—chefs banter
floor of the building, that has a well-earned with diners from across the handsome wood
place on this year’s Top 20. The omakase- counter, the semi-open kitchen offers culinary
only restaurant is quite unlike any sushi bar theatrics and the drinks flow freely. Balbi,
you may have been to before—not only due who previously trained at Tokyo’s Cuisines
to its slightly clinical, white-tiled counters, Michel Troisgros, has come into his own
but also for the original combinations that since helming seafood-centric restaurant The
flank the expertly crafted nigiri. Levy’s silky Ocean; his preparation of ingredients from
chawanmushi with Carabineros prawn and simple sweetcorn to luxurious Kagoshima A4
the titular okra is a true signature, and the wagyu are nothing short of extraordinary,
masterfully aged varieties of fish that top presented on beautiful handcrafted crockery.
much of his sushi are a gastronomic lesson in We also appreciate that this is the kind of
themselves. place where diners can feel as comfortable
But when a more classic sushi-ya ordering a beer as they would a glass of the
experience is what we’re after, we would finest Burgundy—both of which are on offer.

T .DINING 2018 | 63