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This mix of high-end gastronomy with slant—you end up with awe-inspiring dishes TASTE
a more convivial environment reminds us such as runny quails’ eggs cooked with butter RENAISSANCE
of new addition Frantzén’s Kitchen (page and herbs like the classic escargot, or salt- Frantzén’s
79), the casual offshoot of Stockholm’s baked local chicken with black truffle and Kitchen and
Vicky Lau’s
two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Frantzén. giblet rice.
Tate are stellar
Located at the top of Upper Station Street, This humble dedication to ingredients
examples
the diminutive venue offers warm Swedish reminds us of another chef—Shane Osborn
of how the
hospitality combined with seriously complex of Arcane (page 78), a truly unsung
new rules of
cooking. Chef Jim Löfdahl has worked with hero of Hong Kong’s culinary scene. His gastronomy
Björn Frantzén since the early days of the modestly sized restaurant on the third floor are changing
restaurant in Sweden, and he brings forth of a Central skyscraper may not have the what goes on
a distinct interpretation of modern Nordic pizzazz of flashier addresses, but the level our plates
gastronomy, incorporating uncommon of cooking is top-class—and Osborn is
ingredients such as fermented lingonberries, always in the kitchen, not being the type
crispy white moss and vendace roe into highly to simply splash his name on the menu and
original dishes. reap the rewards. His contemporary blend
This confidence can also be seen at David of European traditions and seasonal, flavour-
Lai’s Neighborhood (page 79), which has forward produce (mainly a mix of Australian,
become something of a cult favourite among British and Japanese) creates a cuisine that is
food lovers. You could say Lai is the chef’s individual and distinctive.
chef, a respected peer that has carved his own The same can be said of Amber (page
way following his classical training under 78), a stalwart on the dining scene, with chef
the tutelage of Alain Ducasse. At this small Richard Ekkebus at the helm for more than
hideaway restaurant, the daily-changing menu 10 years since its opening. The continual
encompasses seriously good ingredients and evolution of The Landmark Mandarin
time-old techniques, spun with a little bit of Oriental restaurant has been intriguing, and
Lai’s culinary whimsy and a Mediterranean the menu is as exciting and accomplished

64 | T .DINING 2018