Page 63 - Hong_Kong_&_Macau's_Best_Restaurants_English_edition

Calvert has shifted the menu to portray his restaurant on the quieter end of Hollywood BLANK SLATE
own point of view. Expect refined takes on Road. Each course is inspired by a significant Okra Bar’s pristine
French favourites (the pigeon pithivier is ingredient or memory, from the flavour setting allows food
ethereal), and stay open-minded about the of Chiu Chow marinade to the scent of to shine; Ta Vie’s
esoteric and distinctly un-French creations osmanthus. The lyrical quality of Lau’s food is plating is always a
feast for the eyes
such as the merguez sausage sandwich with neatly matched by the picture-perfect setting
salsa verde. that betrays her past as a graphic designer;
Another chef who has carved his own the dishes are each self-contained pieces of
style of cuisine with classical training is art, rendered in brilliant hues, shapes and
Hideaki Sato of Ta Vie (page 80), who has textures.
successfully parlayed his understanding of From one Vicky to another, we arrive at
French and Japanese techniques into dishes VEA (page 80), Vicky Cheng and Antonio
that are visually stunning and highly original. Lai’s bijou Central restaurant, where the tiny
Sato is the kind of chef who will readily nerd details (the velveteen rest pad to keep your
out when it comes to the ingredients at his mobile phone from sliding off the marble
disposal—each item on the plate tasting tabletop, for example) and the overarching
distinct and somehow more than itself. He’s storyline of the food combine to become
also a fan of using creative techniques to more than the sum of their parts. Staunchly
fashion culinary surprises, such as combining proud of his Hong Kong and Shanghainese
flour, water and squid ink to create realistic- heritage, Cheng’s menu is filled with thrilling
looking abalone shells. The enthusiasm for spins on tradition, from the superlative
produce, both local and foreign, translates roasted sea cucumber with langoustine
into dishes that truly speak of the season— and cordyceps to a beautifully cooked local
and in turn speak to us. yellow chicken paired with Chinese cabbage,
When it comes to the language of food, scallions and Iberico lardo.
Vicky Lau’s fluency in the art manifests in Another new addition to the Top 20
a menu she calls “All the Odes”—a serious list this year is just one street away but,
tasting menu at Tate (page 80), her split-level gastronomically speaking, worlds apart.

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