Page 92 - Taste_and_Travel_International

TASTE;5TRAVEL REGIONAL MARKETPLACE LIZ WEST

Montreal BY EMILY KENNEDY

The Culinary Traveller’s Guide

Neighbourhoods Eat Montreal’s great tastes.

OLD MONTREAL Lining the edge of the St Ũ There are many local
MONTREAL
Lawrence River is %!14ƫ +*0.! (ƫwith its bagel bakeries. For a fresh
cobblestone streets, picturesque squares, bagel any time of day, try St-
old-world architecture, -1 %/, cafés, fine Viateur Bagel (open 24 hours) at
dining and small parks. Charming, although their 263 St-Viateur Ouest location.
narrow, Rue St Paul is where you’ll find
many artisans, while Rue de la Commune Montreal smoked meat is available
is a breezy waterfront street teeming with all over town, but try Schwartz’s — a
cyclists, wandering tourists and Cirque du Montreal tradition since 1928 — and
Soleil patrons. while you’re there pick up some

DOWNTOWN Rue Ste-Catherine is the busy Montreal steak spice to bring home.
hub of downtown with big-name fashion Schwartz’s Deli, 3895 Boul St-Laurent.
brands and department stores. But along Visit Marché des Saveurs (in Marché
Notre-Dame Ouest and Rue Charlevoix is Jean-Talon) for all kinds of Quebecois
a somewhat secluded eating and drinking
scene. For example, Restaurant Candide, delicacies, such as artisan cheeses, MARCHÉ ATWATER You’ll find this
hidden in the back half of a church in the preserves, maple syrup and more. market on the banks of the Canal
suburb called Little Burgundy, is a unique Don’t leave Quebec without a taste de Lachine. Inside the vaulted hall
fine-dining experience. of French-Canadian classics poutine, are high-end delicatessens and
tourtière, cretons and pouding specialty food shops, outside are
LE PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL This is a hip area various other vendors. 138 Ave
for eating out (only second in coolness chômeur. Atwater, 7 am–6 pm Mon-Wed; to
to Mile End and Mile Ex), with a range of 7 pm Thu; to 8 pm Fri; to 5 pm Sat
restaurants for all meals of the day, although Some of Montreal’s Drink and Sun.
if you eat at the famous Au Pied du Cochon, great brewers. Ũ
you may not need any other meals! You’ll MARCHÉ BONSECOURS Built in
also find a healthy amount of BYOB bistros đƫ Unibroue 1847, this is Montreal’s oldest
and big plates along Le Jardins de Panos. đƫ Microbrasserie de public market, which sold meats
Charlevoix and fresh produce right up until
MILE END, MILE EX and LITTLE ITALY Looking 1963. Although you won’t find
to do some culinary shopping? Little Italy đƫ Le Trou du diable fresh ingredients here today, the
is the best area for kitchen items. These đƫ Les Trois Mousquetaires neoclassical heritage building is
neighbourhoods are also where you’ll find đƫ Goudale still an edifice to be admired. It now
some really unique, although not necessarily đƫ Bell Guele houses several cafés, and boutique
pricey, bistros, lounges and eateries as well shops selling arts, crafts and fashion
as legendary bagel shops, and many cafés. đƫ Brasseurs du Monde pieces. In warmer months a number
Hip new Mile Ex is considered Montreal’s đƫ Dieu du Ciel of al fresco restaurants take over the
most creative area, with hidden bars, đƫ Pit Caribou front façade at 350 Saint-Paul Est.
brasseries and many boutique eateries. www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca
đƫ Le Castor
đƫ Le Lièvre All of Montreal’s markets are open
Markets đƫ Les Soeurs Grises year-round. For a complete listing
of Montreal’s farmers’ markets see
MARCHÉ JEAN-TALON This is the city’s đƫ Brasseurs Illimités www.marchepublics-mtl.com
largest food market, with several hundred đƫ Brasseurs Dunham
stalls selling all kinds of fresh produce, and đƫ Le Bilboquet Kitchen Stores
offering many taste tests! There are also
several delis and cafés where you can get đƫ McAuslan LES TOUILLEURS 152 Avenue Laurier
sandwiches, crêpes and other meals. 7075 đƫ L’Alchimiste Ouest.
Ave Casgrain, 7 am–6 pm Mon, Wed and đƫ Charlevoix QUINCAILLERIE DANTE 6851 St-
Sat; to 8 pm Thu and Fri; to 5 pm Sun. Dominique Street.

90 TASTE;5TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL5 JANUARY–MARCH 2018