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TRAVEL Bloomberg Pursuits January 29, 2018

4.1 percent, making it the fastest-
growing of the major Latin American
economies. International tourism rev-
enue was projected to rise 8.5 percent
from a year earlier, better than any
country except Egypt, according to the
World Trade & Tourism Council.
But while the nation has seen
drastic economic improvement, little
of that benefit has made it to the
Sacred Valley, where houses are gen-
erally made of adobe and only some
have electricity. Finding well-paying
work opportunities often means mov-
ing to Cusco or Lima, far from a tradi-
tional life. Mass tourism (think buses
and backpackers) goes only so far to
change the tide; it’s sensitive tourism
that brings consistent jobs, encourages
long-term investment, and makes cul-
ture a valuable asset. Without it, urban
migration threatens to imperil the her-
itage that’s hiding in the long shadow
of Machu Picchu. that aren’t being given the proper shuttle van, past tin-roofed buildings,
In July the Decentralized Culture toolkits to succeed.” For example, the fields of corn that look like pointillist
Bureau of Cusco started regulating mass-produced trinket vendors and paintings, and turnoff signs for obscure
visitation to Machu Picchu, helping quick-service cafes of Aguas Calientes, Inca ruins. 69
mitigate the site’s crowds. Now visi- the town below Machu Picchu, cater Suddenly, like an oasis, the resort
tors must buy tickets and be accompa- only to a high-volume, low-cost style appears: a low-lying, whitewashed
nied by a licensed guide. And just as of travel. To foster economic growth, structure with terra-cotta roof tiles and
Leo preached, the new management locals must create experiences that a latticed shell of angular beams fash-
plan—however rudimentary—gave encourage visitors to spend more than ioned from local timber. Inside, the
way to another announcement: Four a few Peruvian soles. That’s where sev- blond-wood rooms are minimalist and
months later the government began an eral small companies, Peruvian and Wi-Fi-free, relying on the panoramic
international marketing campaign fea- otherwise, have stepped in to help. windows overlooking violet-hued
turing the country’s “wealth of experi- The local hotelier Inkaterra, for quinoa fields for drama—and alpaca
ences,” with ads promoting sites far one, operates three luxury prop- throws for comfort.
beyond Machu Picchu. erties throughout the region. The Since Explora was founded in 1993,
Take Choquequirao. It’s a lost city mostly food-focused activities include its guiding principle has been to take
fewer than 40 miles from Machu Picchu studying medicinal herbs and learn- guests as far off the beaten path as
and three times as large but receives ing to make the local corn beverage, they’re willing to go, almost always on
only one or two dozen tourists a day. chica de jora. Mountain Lodges of their own two feet. In addition to its
That’s because it’s accessible only via a Peru, G Adventures, Aracari, and oth- newest outpost in Peru, the company
tough, five-day hike across a river and ers have also made a name on their has three five-star properties in Chile—
a wide canyon. Late last year the gov- high-quality cultural exchanges. in Patagonia, in the Atacama Desert,
ernment revealed a $62 million plan to New to the area is Explora, a and on Easter Island—and it’s been rec-
develop the site, including a cable car family-owned adventure-tourism outfit ognized as a standard-bearer in each of
that could whisk travelers there. based in Chile. The company opened its its destinations. At the hotel in Peru,
Grants such as these can be a bless- first lodge in the tiny Sacred Valley town 90 percent of the employees are from
ing and a curse. “In developing coun- of Urquillos in July 2016; it’s the area’s local communities.
tries like this one, the money from first property combining intense hikes Working with Explora has become a
tourism won’t go to the right places with extreme comfort. (Rooms for two badge of honor, says Jose Rosemberg,
unless you educate rural commu- guests start at $3,500 for three nights, the general manager. The company
nities on how to meet the needs of including meals and excursions.) From offers its guides year-round employ-
their potential clients,” says Aracari’s Cusco’s airport, the ride to the lodge ment instead of the seasonal contract
Mosquera. “These are humble people takes almost two hours in a Mercedes work that’s typical in the industry.