Page 215 - Buck Tilton - Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches 2 ed.
P. 215

A  FRICTION  KNOT  FOR  ASCENDING  A  ROPE  OR

                ESCAPING A BELAY


                When  tied  properly,  the  klemheist  knot  (or  Machard  knot)
                grips the rope when weighted but releases and slides along

                the  rope  when  the  load  is  off.  It  releases  and  slides  with
                more ease than the prusik knot (see page 84) but grips with

                less  tenacity  than  the  prusik.  It  works  well  for  tying  off  a
                climber’s rope to allow escape from the belay.




















































                                      Klemheist Knot: Step 1
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