Page 220 - Buck Tilton - Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches 2 ed.

Pass the loop through the first carabiner only.
Slide the loop onto the spines of the carabiners,

the sides oppositeto the gates, before loading the
system.

Prusik Knot

A FRICTION KNOT USED FOR ASCENDING A ROPE

As with the klemheist knot (see page 82), the prusik slides
up the rope when unloaded but grips the rope firmly when

loaded, so it is actually a slide-and-grip hitch. A big
difference, however, is in the fact that the prusik grips the

rope better, so much so that it may be difficult to break free
after being loaded with a heavy weight. But it can be broken

free by loosening the “tongue” (center loop) first. This knot
is a better choice for new, wet, or otherwise slippery rope.