Page 106 - Jim Whippy - Reeds Knot Handbook

This useful knot is thought to have been invented by
mountaineers over a century ago, and was used to attach
the climber to the middle of a rope. Today, it has other uses
as it retains an extraordinary strength even when pulled in
different directions.
The alpine butterfly can be used in any situation
where you need a secure loop in the middle of a rope other useFul Knots
and, although harder to tie, is much more secure than the
bowline on a bight (see pages 50–51). It is suitable for
virtually any type of rope or line and is easy to untie unless it
becomes too wet.

3
Fold the top of the upper
loop down behind the
rope, making sure the
centre of the loop is lower
A than the second crossing.

4
Take the centre of the
loop (A), pass it over the
lower crossing and under,
through the gap between
the crossings.
5
Hold the top of the
loop and allow the sides
to fall into place to
tighten the knot.

105

Rev_Reeds_Knots_inside pages.indd 105 16/07/2012 23:39