Page 16 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

bacon, and bananas are hung." Smart climbers avoid this knot when possible, which is most of the
time when you must tie two ropes together. Still, the Overhand Bend has its uses. It's the fastest and
simplest knot to tie rappel ropes together, admirable qualities when a storm is bearing down. Also,
because both rope ends point in the same direction and the knot makes a trim bundle, it's the least

likely knot to jam when it's dragged down the cliff during rope retrieval.

In the Saxony region of Germany, where metal protection is banned by law to protect the soft
sandstone, they tie the Overhand Bend in short runners and slings. These they then jam, stopper-style,
in crack constrictions. The practice works amazingly well, so long as

Page 15

The Overhand Bend.

An Overhand Bend moves easily over edges (left)

where other knots, like a Double Fisherman's, might tend to snag (right).

you keep the knot soft and flat when you lay it in the crack, then jerk it to cause it to swell. A thin stick
is useful for poking the knot back into the crack. Use your jammed Overhand Bends as protection

when the real thing isn't available, or to back up suspect rappel anchors.

In all uses of the Overhand Bend, take care to leave a 6-inch tail in each end, and don't use this bend
to join ropes of drastically different diameters.