Page 12 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

secondary uses are those that will get you by, although I'd avoid them when possible, as there is
nearly always a better knot for the job.

Overhand

The simple Overhand is probably among the first knots you learned as a child. It has a nostalgic
appeal, but for climbing it is of minor value. Many climbers put it in the end of the belay rope to
prevent dropping the leader should the rope's tail sneak up and try to slip through the belay device.

For this use it's fine, as it's quick to tie even with one hand.

Overhand Knot.

Page 12

Similarly, you can tie an Overhand in each end of your rappel rope to help prevent the tails from

pulling through your rappel device. I've used the Overhand as a stopper knot once or twice in a rappel
rope, but only when I was in a hurry or not thinking right. In clearer moments you'll find that the
Double Overhand and special Stopper Knots work

better, offering bulkier stoppers that are less likely to untie.

Common Use

Stopper knot in the end of a belay rope

Secondary Use

Stopper knot in the end of a rappel rope