Page 14 - Duane Raleigh - Knots Ropes for Climbers

Page 13

Common Use s

Stopper knot in the end of a belay rope

Stopper knot in the end of a rappel rope

Double Overhands used as stopper

knots in a rappeling device.

Overhand on a Bight

This version of the Overhand is the most misused of the climbing knots. Foolish climbers use it as a
middleman's knot or to anchor the rope. In both cases, there are far better knots. Use the Overhand on

a Bight for either purpose, and you'll quickly learn that it's about impossible to untie after it's held
body weight, especially when the rope is wet.

Overhand on a Bight.