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A32    FEATURE
                  Thursday 26 april 2018
            Wine and waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge




            By SALLY CARPENTER HALE                                                                                             lumbia Gorge and Colum-
            Associated Press                                                                                                    bia  Valley  AVAs,  and  uses
            HOOD  RIVER,  Ore.  (AP)  —                                                                                         grapes  from  both  regions.
            The  Columbia  River  Gorge                                                                                         COR  has  won  acclaim  for
            is a marvel of nature known                                                                                         its  cabernet  franc,  mal-
            for  spectacular  waterfalls,                                                                                       bec,  cabernet  franc  rose
            scenery and hiking. But it’s                                                                                        and Alba white, a blend of
            also famous in the world of                                                                                         gewurztraminer  and  pinot
            wine.                                                                                                               gris. We especially liked the
            The  region’s  geology  has                                                                                         2015 cab franc. Picnicking
            given rise to a wine industry                                                                                       is welcome in the courtyard
            that’s growing in both num-                                                                                         garden.  Next,  we  headed
            ber  and  reputation,  with                                                                                         back west and crossed the
            more than 40 wineries with-                                                                                         Columbia to Hood River for
            in  a  40-mile  (60-kilometer)                                                                                      lunch. The town has a huge
            stretch. In 2004, the Colum-                                                                                        beer  scene  —  Full  Sail,
            bia Gorge was designated                                                                                            pFriem  and  Double  Moun-
            an  American  Viticultural                                                                                          tain  among  the  breweries
            Area, a wine grape region                                                                                           — but that tour would have
            distinguished by geograph-                                                                                          to wait for another day. We
            ic features.                                                                                                        settled in at Solstice Wood
            Here’s a look at the gorge,                                                                                         Fire  Cafe  and  sampled
            the wine region and winer-   This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows wine for sale at the Cathedral Ridge Winery in Hood River, Ore., in   some unusual and delicious
            ies, along with what visitors   the Columbia River Gorge.                                                           pizzas,  including  a  cherry
            need  to  know  about  the                                                                         Associated Press  and  chorizo  pie  and  one
            wildfire  that  made  head-  are  open.  An  updated  list  around the country and lo-  fers  many  restaurants  and  made  with  local  cremini
            lines last year.             of the status of hiking trails  cal friends and family.   watering holes, such as the  mushrooms.
            THE GORGE, THE FALLS AND  and       recreational   areas  With a soundtrack of classic  Walking  Man  Brewery,  to  Of  Hood  River’s  15  winer-
            THE FIRE                     can be found here: https://  garage  rock,  we  headed  those just passing through.    ies,  we  chose  two:  Vien-
            The  gorge  is  an  80-mile-  www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/    across  the  Columbia  and  Deeper  into  the  gorge,  to  Wines  and  Cathedral
            long   (129-kilometer-long)  crgnsa/recreation.           east  on  Highway  14,  past  we  passed  through  White  Ridge   Winery.   Viento’s
            canyon with dozens of wa-    THE WINE REGION              Wind Mountain, Dog Moun-     Salmon,   Washington,    a  winemaker, Rich Cushman,
            terfalls spilling down tower-  Many  of  the  wineries  are  tain — known for its spring  popular  spot  for  white-  is a Hood River native who
            ing  cliffs.  The  most  famous  clustered around Hood Riv-  wildflowers — and Beacon  water  rafting  and  kayak-  founded the winery in 2007.
            is Multnomah Falls, 620 feet  er, an hour east of Portland.  Rock  State  Park.  We  saw  ing  on  the  White  Salmon  Viento  sources  most  of  its
            high (189 meters).           Wine tasting in the region is  the Bonneville Dam, which  River.  Whimsical  street  art  grapes  from  several  area
            The  Columbia  River  cuts  a  relaxing  contrast  to  the  generates  enough  elec-   and restaurants line its tiny  vineyards,  but  the  winery
            through  the  gorge  on  its  Willamette  Valley  south  of  tricity  to  power  half  a  mil-  main  street,  including  the  grows  its  own  riesling  in  a
            way to the Pacific Ocean,  Portland, where traffic and  lion homes.  We passed the  Everybody’s  Brewing  pub,  vineyard planted by Cush-
            forming  the  boundary  be-  crowded     tasting   rooms  Bridge of the Gods, a steel  with an outside deck and a  man in 1981.
            tween  Oregon  and  Wash-    can  detract  from  the  ex-  truss cantilever bridge that  view of Mount Hood across  Viento  has  earned  high
            ington  through  the  Cas-   perience.  Tasting  fees  are  leads  to  Cascade  Locks,  the river in Oregon.        marks  for  its  Verona,  a
            cade  Range  mountains  comparable,  $10-$15  per  Oregon.                             THE WINERIES                 blend  of  pinot  gris,  char-
            north  of  Mount  Hood  and  person.                      Nearby  Stevenson,  Wash-    At  COR  Cellars,  in  Lyle,  donnay  and  sauvignon
            past  heavily  forested  hill-  Wine  tasting  was  our  mis-  ington,  is  home  to  Skama-  Washington,   we   were  blanc, and for its syrah and
            sides and huge boulders.     sion one day while in Port-  nia Lodge, a resort that fea-  treated  to  a  lovely  view  sangiovese.  We  thought
            Interstate 84 on the Oregon  land for a reunion show by  tures 254 guest rooms, two  of  Mount  Hood.  The  win-    the 2014 pinot noir was deli-
            side  of  the  river  and  High-  my  husband  Rick’s  rock  restaurants,  a  golf  course,  ery,  founded  in  2003  by  cious. Of the three wineries,
            way 14 on the Washington  band.  We  rented  a  party  an  outdoor  zipline  and  Luke  Bradford,  produces  Cathedral  Ridge  had  the
            side  offer  easy  access  to  bus and filled it with 16 peo-  aerial park, and onsite hik-  10  wines  just  west  of  the  largest  selection,  including
            trailheads,  viewpoints  and  ple — college buddies from  ing trails. Stevenson also of-  boundary between the Co-  several  reserve  wine  op-
            rugged  parks.  The  windy                                                                                          tions.  The  winery  has  won
            gorge is also a favorite spot                                                                                       numerous awards, primarily
            for wind- and kite-surfers.                                                                                         for  its  reds.  Winemaker  Mi-
            A  wildfire  burned  more                                                                                           chael Sebastiani hails from
            than  20,000  acres  (8,000                                                                                         the famous California wine-
            hectares)  of  the  gorge                                                                                           making family.
            last  fall.  But  little  evidence                                                                                  We  were  drawn  to  the
            of it can be seen from the                                                                                          reserve  reds  —  the  2015
            road, aside from a very few                                                                                         Daughter’s  Rhome,  2015
            scorched  trees  cut  down                                                                                          Rhett’s Red, 2014 Rock Star
            just  east  of  Multnomah                                                                                           Red  (a  blend  of  cabernet
            Falls.  The  lower  viewing                                                                                         sauvignon and syrah), 2014
            platform at the falls has re-                                                                                       and  2015  pinot  noir,  and
            opened,  though  the  trail                                                                                         2015  cabernet  sauvignon/
            to  the  upper  platform  re-                                                                                       merlot blend.
            mains  closed.  Elsewhere,                                                                                          Heading back to Portland,
            Horsetail  and  Wahkeena                                                                                            we  uncorked  a  couple  of
            Falls  are  also  closed  and                                                                                       bottles  and  vowed  to  re-
            not  expected  to  reopen                                                                                           turn  soon  to  explore  more
            until  at  least  this  summer,   This Aug. 11, 2017 photo shows the vineyards at Cathedral Ridge Winery in Hood River, Ore., in the   of the gorgeous gorge and
                                         Columbia River Gorge.
            but others like Latourell Falls                                                                    Associated Press  its wineries.q
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