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A32    FEATURE
                     Monday 26 June 2017
              Meal program bridges cultural divisions, 1 plate at a time




            By NATALIE POMPILIO                                                                                                 tain places in cities where
            Associated Press                                                                                                    people of different cultures
            PHILADELPHIA  (AP)  —  On                                                                                           and  backgrounds  unite
            the  menu,  the  flavor  pro-                                                                                       without  conflict.  Reading
            files  seemed  incongruous:                                                                                         Terminal  Market  —  a  bus-
            Chinese dumplings, Italian-                                                                                         tling home to butchers and
            style roast pork and a Mexi-                                                                                        fishmongers,     sandwich
            can chicken dish featuring                                                                                          stalls and Amish farmers —
            an edible weed.                                                                                                     was one of them.
            But   when    dinner   was                                                                                          “It’s a place of refuge and
            served,  the  guests  seated                                                                                        convergence,    old   and
            and  plates  bearing  foods                                                                                         young,  black  and  white,
            of  three  different  cultures                                                                                      coming together and feel-
            shared, it all made sense.                                                                                          ing  good  around  issues  of
            The  meal  was  part  of                                                                                            food,”  Anderson  said.  “It’s
            “Breaking  Bread;  Breaking                                                                                         a place where people get
            Barriers,”  a  yearlong  pro-                                                                                       along  even  though  we
            gram  that  brings  people                                                                                          know  there  are  fault  lines.
            of  different  backgrounds                                                                                          It’s a beautiful thing. It’s in-
            together for a meal featur-                                                                                         spiring.”
            ing  their  cultural  favorites,   In this photo provided by Alex Styer, Philadelphia Mayor Jim Kenney, front left, samples a verdola-  The program hosted one of
            bridging  differences  one   gas con pollo dish prepared by Cristina Martinez, front right, co-owner of the Mexican restaurant   its  most  emotional  dinners
            plate at a time.             El Compadre in Philadelphia, during a June 5, 2017, dinner at Reading Terminal Market in Phila-  in  January,  Gupta  said.
            “People cooking and eat-     delphia.                                                                               It  brought  together  Syr-
            ing   together    happens                                                                          Associated Press  ian refugees and residents
            every  day,  but  it  doesn’t   The dinner consisted of Chi-  shared  details  about  the   something you’re so proud   deeply  rooted  in  their
            often  happen  across  our   nese dumplings with pork or  cultural     backgrounds     of,”  said  Carol  Wong,  an   northeastern  Philadelphia
            social  boundaries,”  said   kale; verdolagas con pollo  and  favorite  foods.  In  one   educator  of  Chinese  de-  neighborhood.  The  Syr-
            Anuj Gupta, general man-     (verdolagas is an herb also  grouping,  the  diners  —  of   scent.                    ian  contributions  included
            ager  of  Reading  Terminal   known  as  purslane  that’s  Irish,  German,  Polish,  Mexi-  Everyone agreed.        falafel  and  hummus.  The
            Market,  the  historic  and   largely considered a weed  can,    Cambodian      and    “In  Mexico,  it’s  all  about   American  offerings  were
            sprawling  indoor  market    by  Americans);  and  roast-  Italian  descents  —  talked   food,”  said  Ivette  Com-  blackened   catfish   and
            and home to the program.     ed  pork  rolled  with  spin-  about  a  dumpling  be-
            “It’s an incredibly powerful   ach, roasted peppers and  ing  a  universal  food,  with
            tool  to  cut  through  what-  provolone   cheese,   the  multiple  cultures  having
            ever  social  barriers  you   Mummer  contribution  in  a  a  version:  pierogi,  ravi-
            want to erect.”              nod  to  a  popular  Italian-  oli,  empanadas,  kreplach.
            Jews  and  Muslims  have     American  dish  served  on  The  conversation  flowed
            shared Jewish apple cake     New Year’s Day.Before the  thanks to a facilitator from
            and  baklava  as  part  of   meal, Chef Alice Ye taught  the  Philadelphia  Commis-
            the  program.  Members  of   Mummer Jay Polakoff how  sion on Human Relations.
            the  African-American  and   to  make  Chinese  dump-     In  discussing  the  shared
            Korean  communities  have    lings  as  the  other  diners  meal,  Oscar  Galvan,  a
            come  together  to  com-     watched. Someone noted  mechanic who is native of
            pare fried chicken recipes.  that  Polakoff’s  seemed  a  Mexico, said he was tempt-
            During  the  most  recent    little, well, misshapen.     ed to put hot sauce on his
            gathering, residents of the   “It’s actually a hamentash-  Italian pork dish.
            city’s  Chinese  and  Mexi-  en,” Polakoff said, referring  They also reflected on how   In this photo provided by Alex Styer, Cristina Martinez, left, co-
            can  communities  enjoyed    to the tri-cornered confec-  food related to friends and   owner of the Mexican restaurant El Compadre in Philadelphia,
            dinner with members of the   tion  associated  with  the  family.                      teaches Carol Wong, center, and Wei Chen, right, how to press
            Philadelphia Mummers As-     Jewish holiday of Purim.     “One  of  the  neatest  ways   tortillas during a June 5, 2017, dinner at Reading Terminal Mar-
            sociation,  a  10,000-strong   Gathered  at  tables,  the  to  promote  friendship  is   ket in Philadelphia.
            civic  association  behind   40  community  members  to  share  your  ethnic  food,                                             Associated Press
            the  city’s  annual  New                                                               pean,  who  moved  to  the   collard  greens.During  the
            Year’s Day parade.                                                                     U.S. from Mexico six months   meal, held a few days af-
            For  much  of  their  history,                                                         ago. “They’re always feed-   ter  the  announcement  of
            Mummers groups included                                                                ing you. It’s how they tell us   President  Donald  Trump’s
            only  white  men.  Women                                                               they love us.”               original travel ban that in-
            weren’t allowed in the pa-                                                             “Breaking  Bread;  Break-    cluded  Syrian  refugees,
            rade  until  a  few  decades                                                           ing  Barriers”  was  created   the  refugees  shared  sto-
            ago. The tradition is also a                                                           with an $85,000 grant from   ries of their lost homes and
            family  legacy,  with  many                                                            the  nonprofit  John  S.  and   changed lives.
            clubs  based  in  southern                                                             James L Knight Foundation.   At  evening’s  end,  Gupta
            Philadelphia.                                                                          Gupta said he was inspired   said,  one  of  the  refugees
            While the 2017 parade was                                                              to  seek  the  funding  after   — a woman in her 50s who
            controversy-free,  past  pa-                                                           reading  sociologist  Elijah   had  been  quiet  during
            rades were tainted by per-                                                             Anderson’s  “The  Cosmo-     the meal — stood up and
            formances  dubbed  racist                                                              politan Canopy/Race and      shared  her  thoughts  with
            or culturally insensitive. The                                                         Civility in Everyday Life.”  the help of an interpreter.
            Mummers have tried to di-     In this photo provided by Alex Styer, participants in a yearlong   Anderson,  who  lives  in   “I  thought  this  evening
            versity,  creating  a  division   “Breaking Bread, Breaking Barriers” program share a meal on   Philadelphia  and  taught   was just going to be about
            in 2015 specifically for eth-      June 5, 2017, at Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia.   at the University of Pennsyl-  food,” she said. “It turns out
            nic groups.                                                           Associated Press  vania, found there are cer-  it was about unity.”q
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