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A32    FEATURE
                        Friday 29 June 2018

            Wineries hedge against climate change, move to cool climates


            By ANDREW SELSKY                                                                                                    Africa's   Western   Cape
            Associated Press                                                                                                    caused a 15 percent drop
            DALLAS, Ore. (AP) — When                                                                                            in  the  grape  harvest,  of-
            an  Oregon  valley  famed                                                                                           ficials  announced  in  May,
            for its wine heats up under                                                                                         saying wine prices will likely
            the  afternoon  sun,  Pacific                                                                                       go  up  as  a  consequence.
            Ocean  winds  rush  through                                                                                         A predicted long-term dry-
            a  dip  in  the  mountains,                                                                                         ing  trend  has  serious  impli-
            cooling  the  grapes  in  Jeff                                                                                      cations  for  South  Africa's
            Havlin's vineyards.                                                                                                 wine  industry,  said  Wanda
            The  Van  Duzer  Corridor,                                                                                          Augustyn  of  VinPro,  which
            the  lowest  point  in  Or-                                                                                         represents the nation's wine
            egon's  Coast  Range,  has                                                                                          producers  and  stakehold-
            become  a  go-to  place                                                                                             ers.
            for  wineries  and  vineyards                                                                                       "In  the  longer  term,  pro-
            hedging  their  bets  against                                                                                       ducers will have to look at
            climate   change.    Wine-                                                                                          quality,   drought-resistant
            makers and vineyard own-                                                                                            vines which produce more
            ers  in  a  95-square-mile                                                                                          flavor,  acidity  and  inten-
            (246-square-kilometer) sec-                                                                                         sity,  but  have  lower  water
            tion  of  the  corridor  have                                                                                       needs," Augustyn said.
            applied  to  become  the                                                                                            Winemakers are starting to
            newest  American  Viticul-                                                                                          set  up  in  Brittany,  France's
            tural Area, with the wind its   In this Aug. 10, 2016, file photo, is a bottle of Runner Duck wine, that is produced on the   northwesternmost  region,
            predominant feature.         Vergenoegd wine estate on the outskirts of Stellenbosch, South Africa.                 which previously was unde-
            "When  the  temperature                                                                           Associated Press  sirable because of Atlantic
            drops,  you  need  a  jack-                                                                                         wind, rain and lack of sun-
            et  in  August,"  said  Havlin,  vests  and  diminished  wine  have the cool breeze in the  and  Chile,  bought  land  shine.
            who on a recent afternoon  quality as grapes ripen fast-  afternoon  and  the  cooler  4,000  feet  (1,200  meters)  These  days,  vineyards  are
            was driving a utility vehicle  er,  once-iffy  sites  like  the  temperatures at night and  high  in  the  Pyrenees  foot-  even  planted  as  far  north
            through his vineyards.       Van  Duzer  (pronounced  the  fog  in  the  morning,"  hills  as  an  investment  in  as Sweden.
            From      South     Africa's  van DOO-zer) Corridor are  said  Ria  D'Aversa,  direc-  cooler climates.             Greg  Jones,  one  of  the
            drought-stricken  vineyards,  coming into their own.      tor  of  ranch  operations  at  Average  temperatures  at  world's  authorities  on  cli-
            to  France's  noble  cha-    Northern  California's  Peta-  McEvoy  Ranch,  a  Petalu-  the  company's  vineyards  mate  change  and  wines,
            teaus,  to  sunny  vineyards  luma  Gap,  which  like  the  ma Gap vineyard.           have  risen  1  degree  Cel-  will be there this summer as
            in  Australia  and  California  Van  Duzer  Corridor  sucks  The  area's  slogan:  "From  sius (1.8 Fahrenheit) over 40  a  keynote  speaker  at  the
            ,  growers  and  winemakers  in ocean breezes, was des-   wind to wine."               years,  with  the  result  that  VitiNord  wine  conference,
            say they are seeing the ef-  ignated  one  of  America's  California winemaker Ehren  harvests are now about 10  which  will  examine  cool-
            fects  of  climate  change  newest  viticultural  areas  in  Jordan said: "People would  days  earlier  than  20  years  er-climate  wine  produc-
            as  temperatures  rise,  with  December.                  have looked at you like you  ago,  company  president  tion.  Sixteen  cool  climate
            swings in weather patterns  Receiving an American Vi-     had three heads if, 30 years  Miguel  A.  Torres  said  in  an  regions  warmed  by  2.52
            becoming more severe.        ticulture  Area  designation  ago, you told someone you  email.                        degrees  Fahrenheit  (1.4
            So  they  are  taking  action  allows  winemakers  to  em-  were  going  to  grow  wine  Torres   called   climate  Celsius) from the late 1800s
            — moving to cooler zones,  phasize  the  unique  char-    grapes there."               change  a  "very  serious  through 2015,
            planting  varieties  that  do  acteristics  of  their  wine,  His  Failla  winery,  based  in  worldwide  problem"  for  Jones  noted  at  an  earlier
            better  in  the  heat,  and  determined  by  climate,  the  Napa  Valley,  recently  winemakers and said  that,  conference.
            shading  their  grapes  with  geography,  soil  and  other  bought  80  acres  (32  hect-  beyond  changing  viticul-  "If  things  keep  going  the
            more leaf canopy.            factors.                     ares) in the Van Duzer Cor-  ture practices, they should  way they're going, then we
            As areas once ideal for cer-  "Even  though  we  have  ridor and opened a winery  also  try  to  reduce  their  have  some  real  challeng-
            tain  grapes  become  less  those  heat  waves  just  like  nearby.  The  corridor  now  greenhouse gas emissions.  es," Jones said. of environ-
            viable, causing earlier har-  Napa and Sonoma, we still  has  a  half-dozen  wineries  Severe  drought  in  South  mental studies.q
                                                                      and at least 17 commercial
                                                                      vineyards, with more on the
                                                                      way.
                                                                      Grapevines  can  tolerate
                                                                      heat  and  drought,  and
                                                                      dry  farming  is  tradition-
                                                                      ally  practiced  in  parts  of
                                                                      Europe.  But  the  past  four
                                                                      years have been the plan-
                                                                      et's hottest on record, and
                                                                      more warming is expected.
                                                                      Even  minor  weather  varia-
                                                                      tions that occur vintage to
                                                                      vintage  can  change  the
                                                                      grapes'  sugar,  acid  and
                                                                      tannin  content,  affecting
                                                                      the  wine's  taste  and  char-  In this photo taken Monday, May 21, 2018, a cellar worker
            In this photo taken Monday, May 21, 2018, workers trim leaves   acteristics.           takes barrels into a cave at the Keller Estate winery in Peta-
            in a Pinot Noir vineyard at the Keller Estate winery in Petaluma,   Familia Torres, a major wine   luma, Calif.
            Calif.                                                                                                                          Associated Press
                                                     Associated Press  producer  based  in  Spain
                                                                      with  wineries  in  California
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