Page 338 - Pie It Forward: Pies, Tarts, Tortes, Galettes, and Other Pastries Reinvented

A NOTE FROM THE SWEETIE PIE

Every cell in my being revolts at the words hot-water crust. And
yet, it’s the stuff of “noble pies.” Noble pies are “raised pies,”
pastries that were served to gentry only. The pies required a
sturdy crust because they were often baked in very tall embossed

tins, which when removed left lovely patterns on the pastry. If the
pastry wasn’t sturdy, it wouldn’t stay upright and wouldn’t take the
pattern. Honestly, a hot-water crust isn’t half bad. If you happen to
lay your hands on an antique pie tin that’s hinged and embossed
and probably laced with lead and you’re brave enough to use it,
make a hot-water crust to achieve the best results.

Here’s what you do: Take 1 pound (455 g) flour, 1 teaspoon (6 g)
salt, and 1 tablespoon (11 g) sugar and whisk them in a large
bowl. Make a well in the flour mixture and crack an egg into it.
Whisk everything together. It will be chunky. In the meantime, in a
large saucepan, combine 1 cup (240 ml) water, ¼ pound (115 g)
butter, and ¼ pound (115 g) lard (if you’re going to go noble, go
lard). Bring the mixture to a boil and then pour it into the mixing

bowl with the flour and egg, stirring all the while with a fork to
ensure that you don’t scramble the egg. Turn the dough out onto a
flour-dusted work surface and knead it until it is smooth and no
egg streaks remain. Use it immediately! The stuff hardens (like
homemade Play-Doh) as it cools. It’s a little wet and strange to
work with, but it’s an adventure!