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dawdling.  Get  the  equipment  and  ingredients  ready  and  go.  Once
                the mixing begins, start to finish, the crust should be wrapped and in

                the refrigerator in about 3 minutes.
                    Cut in the cold fats so the flour coats each bit. “Cutting in”
                means  combining  the  fat  with  the  flour  by  blending  flour  and
                butter bits together until the bits are coated in flour. When cold

                liquid is added, the dampened flour becomes  a shaggy mass,
                cohesive, with bits of butter here and there.
                    I  know  this  directive  can  be  confusing.  Where,  precisely,  is  the
                place where the dough has been worked enough but not too much? I

                like it to just barely form a ball in the food processor. I do the rest of
                the work of organizing the dough not with my warm hands, which are
                likely to melt the fats further, but by using a bench scraper as a tool.
                Here’s how:

                    Form  an  X  with  two  pieces  of  plastic  wrap,  one  atop  the  other,
                and  dust  lightly  with  flour.  Dump  the  dough  onto  the  center  point,
                scraping the food processor bowl clean. Fold the plastic wrap over
                the top and, with the bench scraper, push and prod the mass, aiming

                for  a  rectangular  block  that  is  4  by  6  inches.  Use  a  rolling  pin  to
                gently even the surface, right through the wrap, smoothing out any
                air bubbles or cracks in the dough. Flip the block over and use the
                rolling pin again to gently compact the block of dough. Make a few

                tidying moves to square up the edges. There will be pieces of the fat
                still  visible  and  it  will  look  like  a  block  of  dough,  not  a  block  of
                crumbly flour.
                    Refrigerate the dough for at least 4 hours. During this time, any

                bit  of  slight  overworking  will  be  forgiven,  the  flour  will  absorb  the
                liquid, and the butter and other fats will firm up. The cold fats, when
                introduced into a hot oven, will steam and puff, giving the crust loft
                and flake.



                WEIGHTY MATTERS

                Success in baking is a direct result of precision. There are no two
                ways about it. Professional bakers know that weighing ingredients,
                instead  of  using  cup  (volume)  measures,  ensures  precision  and
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