Page 97 - Buck Tilton "Outward Bound Ropes, Knots, and Hitches"

Ropes, Knots, and Hitches

Klemheist Knot

A fRICtIOn KnOt fOR
ASCendIng A ROpe
OR eSCApIng A BeLAy
When tied properly, the klemheist
knot grips the rope when weighted
but releases and slides along the rope
when the load is off. It releases and
slides with more ease than the prusik
knot (see page 84) but grips with less
tenacity than the prusik. It works well
for tying off a climber’s rope to allow
escape from the belay.

Klemheist Knot: Step 1 Klemheist Knot: Step 2

Wrap a loop of cord or a sling Pass the lower end of the loop
of webbing four or five times through the upper end and clip
around the rope and toward the a carabiner into the lower loop.
load, keeping the wraps neatly (You can add more wraps if the
laid against the rope. knot slips.)

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