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(ant eggs), an Aztec delicacy. We loved his moist   the cathedral. Masked men and boys were performing
          chayote panque (sweet bread) and the delicate, creamy  Michoacán's cheery Dance of the Old Men beside the
          tomato salsa on the chayote croquette. Breakfast at   18th century Baroque Catedrál de Morelia. The city
          the hotel was an absolute delight, with puffy pan dulce,   bustled with weekend energy
          spicy huevos mexicana and rich, dark coffee fueling us   My last night was devoted to deciphering my notes
          for the day's adventures.                          and lists. I skipped dinner but took time for a glass of
            I had one free day in Morelia after wrapping up our   wine on my balcony overlooking the cathedral's spires.
          chayote pursuit, and wandered aimlessly. I quickly   I nibbled on flaky orejas (elephant ears or palmiers)
          learned everyone in Michoacán has a sweet tooth. One   from a stand in Tzintzuntzan, scattering pastry bits
          of Morelia's main attractions is the Mercado de Dulces,   everywhere. I had three days (including my travel
          a market in a colonial-era convent filled with stalls   home) to write my chayote story and more info than
          selling all manner of candy. Streets stands sell churros   I could possibly use—plus a few extra pounds and a
          and gaspacho (not to be confused with Spanish      longing for more play time in Michoacán.
          gazpacho), a chopped fresh fruit salad with a hint of
          onion and chilies. Bakeries and candy shops abound,   The busy kitchen at Chari K’umanchikua.
          and sidewalk cafes specialize in chocolate and bread.   Zuñiga and the author sampling chayote
          Even the uchepos, a form of tamale, are dulce (sweet).   creations at the Hotel De La Soledad.  A
          Fine examples of the region's collectible folk art and   16th-century church dominates a large
          textiles drew me to the Casa de las Artesanías, and I   park in Tzintzuntzan.
          was thrilled to hear a tapping noise while approaching



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