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PEOPLE & ARTS Saturday 21 September 2019
Fendi lets sun shine on post-Lagerfeld era, glancing back

By COLLEEN BARRY lightness and movement,
MILAN (AP) — A naïve softness in materials, silhou-
streak is running through ette and color palette.
the collections on preview "It is difficult to define beau-
during Milan Fashion Week ty," the designer said after
— with a return to simpler the show. "There are many
times, yesteryear prints and women who can be beau-
patterns and unfussy silhou- tiful in their own way. Once
ettes. there was the beauty of the
Checked gingham is mak- woman with the cigarette.
ing a comeback, while Today women can be dif-
crushed velvet is making in- ferent, differently beauti-
roads into the summertime ful."
wardrobe as fashion takes Opening the show and set-
comfort in nostalgia. Raf- ting the tone, an airy trench
fia bags and weave details floated over a transparent
also are on display. pink top and gray crushed
Highlights from Thursday velvet trousers, anchored
previews for Spring/Sum- by an urban pill-box cross-
mer 2020 womenswear col- body bag.
lections: The youthful-dressing Em-
THE SUN SHINING ON FENDI porio Armani woman can
Fendi seemed to have an show some skin in a vel-
atavistic, perhaps artis- vet bra-top and match-
tic, need to return to the Models Gigi Hadid, from front second left, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber wear creations with oth- ing trousers, unified with a
er models as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion
brand's ready-to-wear roots week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. double-breasted pink blaz-
in the mid-1960s to confront Associated Press er. A wide-trouser jumpsuit
the first collection since the in denim blue had a hip-
loss of Karl Lagerfeld, the naïve feel, countered by a queen bee, there was a the solo headliner. And she pie feel with a cropped
brand's founding womens- plunging V-line and translu- fur-check intarsia coat, with took her bows standing in crushed velvet jacket. Tulle
wear designer from 1965 cent print mini or matching sheer checked skirt and a front of the image of a ris- tops danced over silky trou-
until his death last February. macrame weave skirts. cropped marigold knit top. ing orange sun to the com- sers, accented by a tangle
The new collection by Sil- Florals and gardening refer- The look finished with bug- panion melody "Let the of beads. By nightfall, a sil-
via Venturini Fendi drew on ences tied in neatly with the eye glasses, fastened with Sunshine In." very mood descended with
easy 1960s mom styles, like menswear Spring/Summer a librarian eyeglass chain ____ a metallic sheen on organ-
quilted jackets and match- 2020 collection previewed bearing the double FF logo, THE LIGHTNESS OF EMPORIO za trousers and gathered
ing mini-skirts, garden flo- last June in Milan. A series and large brim prairie bon- ARMANI zipper jackets, accented
ral cropped raincoat and in golden honey yellow nets. Giorgio Armani says he by chain-mail earrings and
skirt and easy-to-wear ter- and brown gave a down- The 1969 hit "The Age of wanted to dress his Empo- breast-plates recalling the
ry-cloth skirts and canvas to-earth buzz to a checked Aquarius" played through- rio Armani woman in air. He 1970s disco era. Footwear
jackets. Woven bags and fur coat, or gingham dress out the show, setting an just about succeeds. included pointy flat mules,
matching woven sweat- with short-sleeved fur in optimistic tone for Fendi's The Spring/Summer 2020 high-top sneakers and
ers had a nostalgic, almost matching trim. For the debut collection flying as collection was a study of knee-high military boots.q
Andrew Combs' 'Ideal Man' is tuneful and sensitive

By PABLO GORONDI The arrangements mix psy- Other highlights include the
Associated Press chedelia, acoustic and desperate "Shipwreck Man"
Andres Combs, "Ideal Man" electric sounds, a handful and its sweet backing vo-
(New West Records) of classic keyboards and cals, the vulnerable "Hide
On "Ideal Man," Andrew generous reverb. Along and Seek" and "Firestarter,"
Combs trades in some of with Combs' sensitive but where lament, caution,
the high-gloss finish of his resolute singing, they keep resignation and recrimi-
previous work for a trebly "Ideal Man" far from any nation combine for a bit-
kaleidoscope of sounds sappiness, despite the ter but prudent farewell
that underscores a beguil- depth of emotions. as Combs' voice expertly
ing set of highly-emotional Opener "Stars of Longing" travels across a full range
tunes. seems conjoined at the of feelings. Closer "Golden,"
Combs, Texas-born and hip with the title track that one of the record's most
Nashville-based, shaped follows it, both songs form- tender moments, ponders
by his recent dedication ing a sort of statement of the inevitability of his child's
to painting as well as the purpose. The first imbues its growth while lending sup-
birth of his daughter, says lesson of "there's only love" port for the journey — "One
the brushwork increased his with fuzzy guitars and a foot in front of the other/I'll
sensitivity while the parent- cracking snare, while "Ideal be right here/If there's too
ing responsibilities seem to Man" lists hunters, coyotes much ground to cover."
have deepened the senti- and drunken poets as pos- "Ideal Man" is an excep-
mental connections of the sible characters for "just a This cover image released by New West Records shows "Ideal tional example of quality
songs to his own surround- stranger waiting my turn to Man," a release by Andrew Combs. songwriting and adventur-
ings and the wider world. be somebody." Associated Press ous musicality.q