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A32    FEATURE
              Thursday 27 sepTember 2018
            Startups shook up the sleepy razor market. What's next?




            By ALEXANDRA OLSON                                                                                                  "Initially,  the  biggest  play-
            Associated Press                                                                                                    ers  underestimated  the
            NEW  YORK  (AP)  —  What                                                                                            potential  of  these  brands,
            do you hate shopping for?                                                                                           and  when  they  reacted
            Toothpaste?     Sunscreen?                                                                                          either  by  dropping  prices
            The  guys  who  founded                                                                                             or  by  launching  their  own
            Harry's  shaving  club  want                                                                                        subscription  models,  the
            to know.                                                                                                            damage  was  done,"  said
            The  startup,  which  took                                                                                          Fatima Linares, beauty and
            on  razor  giants  Gillette                                                                                         fashion  research  manager
            and  Schick  with  its  direct-                                                                                     at Euromonitor Internation-
            to-consumer    subscription                                                                                         al.  "It's  still  unknown  what
            model,  has  since  expand-                                                                                         these  companies  will  do
            ed into traditional retail and                                                                                      to revert the situation, or if
            launched  a  line  of  body                                                                                         that is possible at all."
            care products. Armed with                                                                                           Harry's says it now has 6 mil-
            $112  million  in  new  financ-                                                                                     lion  customers  in  the  U.S.
            ing to develop new brands,                                                                                          and  Canada.  It  says  busi-
            the company now is inves-                                                                                           ness has grown 70 percent
            tigating  what  other  sleepy                                                                                       year-over-year,  though  it
            products  might  be  ripe  for                                                                                      does  not  release  sales  fig-
            disruption.                                                                                                         ures.  For  Harry's  and  Dol-
            "It  might  be  better  prod-  In this June 15, 2018, photo, the Winston razor and Harry's face lotion are on display at the head-  lar Shave Club, simplicity is
            ucts,  a  better  experience   quarters of Harry's Inc., in New York.                                               the  point.  Harry's  sells  just
            getting  the  products  or  a                                                                      Associated Press  one  five-blade  razor  with
            brand that appeals to who                                                                                           a  choice  of  two  different
            they  want  to  be  as  peo-  Harry's has captured about  losing  3.6  percent  in  net  vice  president  of  Global  types of handles, priced at
            ple,"  said  Jeff  Raider,  who  2  percent  of  the  $2.8  bil-  North  America  razor  sales  eCommerce  for  Edgewell,  about $2 per cartridge un-
            recently took on the role of  lion  men's  shaving  indus-  in the most recent quarter.  Schick's parent company.   der  their  subscription  plan.
            CEO  of  Harry's  Labs,  over-  try since its launch in 2013,  Both major brands now of-  Pankaj Bhalla, brand direc-  Dollar  Shave  Club  offers
            seeing the development of  according  to  Euromoni-       fer subscription services on  tor of Gillette North Ameri-  a  4-blade  and  a  6-blade
            new brands.                  tor  market  research  firm.  their  own  direct-to-con-  ca, said increasing its online  razor,  with  the  cheaper
            There's a reason why Harry's  Its  main  rival,  Dollar  Shave  sumer sites, which they are  sales  is  a  "key  part  of  our  one  priced  at  $1.50  per
            investors  are  betting  that  Club, has about 8 percent.  leveraging to promote their  strategy." He offers a reality  cartridge.  It  is  a  deliber-
            reinventing  the  razor  was  It's been a gut punch to the  lower-end razors while also  check for the shave clubs:  ate  contrast  to  the  dizzy-
            no  flash-in-the-pan  idea.  industry leaders.            showcasing  their  edge  in  While Gillette might be new  ing  array  of  razors  offered
            Insurgent  brands  are  shak-  Gillette controlled about 70  technological innovation.  to  the  direct-to-consumer  by Gillette and Schick, the
            ing up the way people buy  percent of the U.S. market  "Our  blades  are  known  game, the brand says it has  legacy of their century-old
            everything from mattresses  a  decade  ago.  Last  year,  for  their  long-lasting  qual-  70  percent  of  the  market  tradition of trying to outdo
            to  prescription  acne  rem-  its market share dropped to  ity, which means you need  share on online retailers like  each other. Their lower-end
            edies, eating into the mar-  below 50 percent, accord-    less  cartridges  per  year  as  Amazon and Jet.com.      products  are  priced  com-
            ket  share  of  big  consumer  ing to Euromonitor.        compared  to  the  other  But  critics  say  both  incum-  paratively with the shaving
            product  companies  and  No.  2  razor  maker  Schick  shave  clubs  in  the  mar-     bents were slow to respond  clubs,  while  their  premium
            leaving them scrambling to  has  also  been  squeezed,  ket,"  said  Stephanie  Lynn,  to the new competition.      razors are much pricier.
            respond.                                                                                                            How the newcomers com-
            Eager  venture  capitalists,                                                                                        pare  in  quality  is  a  matter
            digital  technology  and  so-                                                                                       of furious social media de-
            cial  media  make  it  easier                                                                                       bate.  Harry's  gets  its  share
            for  anyone  with  a  good                                                                                          of  negative  reviews  from
            idea to enter the consumer                                                                                          customers who say its razors
            goods  market,  according                                                                                           feel cheap, but others are
            to  a  report  on  insurgent                                                                                        fiercely loyal.
            brands  by  Bain  &  Compa-                                                                                         Greg  Lesko,  a  56-year-old
            ny,  a  management  con-                                                                                            Harry's  customer  from  the
            sulting firm. Contract man-                                                                                         Pittsburgh area, said he be-
            ufacturing,  which  allows                                                                                          came "fed up" with Gillette's
            companies  to  outsource                                                                                            high  prices.  "I  wouldn't  go
            production    and    some-                                                                                          back  if  you  paid  me,"  he
            times defray costs, also has                                                                                        said.  Like  other  insurgent
            made it simpler.                                                                                                    companies,  Harry's  and
            "The  reality  is  that  no  cat-                                                                                   Dollar Shave Club took off
            egory is immune to disrup-                                                                                          because they tapped into
            tion," the Bain & Company                                                                                           shoppers' grievances.
            report said.                                                                                                        Harry's  CEO  Andy  Katz-
            Digital newcomers still rep-                                                                                        Mayfield  said  the  idea  for
            resent only a fraction of the                                                                                       the  start-up  came  to  him
            overall  market  share,  ac-                                                                                        during  a  2011  visit  to  a
            cording  to  the  report.  But                                                                                      drug  store,  where  he  had
            such  companies  are  cap-   In this Friday, June 15, 2018, photo, co-founders and co-CEOs of Harry's Inc., Jeff Raider, left, and   to ask an employee to un-
            turing  a  disproportionate   Andy Katz-Mayfield speak during an interview with The Associated Press at company headquar-  lock  a  case  to  spend  $25
                                         ters in New York.
            share  of  growth  in  recent                                                                      Associated Press  for  blades  and  shaving
            years.                                                                                                              cream.q
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