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A12   WORLD NEWS
                  Thursday 29 augusT 2019
            Mexico's Playa Bagdad mixes sun, sand and drug trafficking




            By MARIA VERZA                                                                                                      actively  collaborating  with
            PLAYA  BAGDAD,  Mexico                                                                                              U.S.  and  Mexican  federal
            (AP) — At the very eastern                                                                                          authorities  to  combat  car-
            end of the U.S.-Mexico bor-                                                                                         tels, often by sharing infor-
            der  there's  a  long  strip  of                                                                                    mation.
            sand where the Rio Grande                                                                                           These  days  though,  the
            meets  the  sea.  It  is  called                                                                                    only  law  enforcement  The
            Playa  Bagdad  —  or  'Bag-                                                                                         Associated Press saw were
            dad Beach.'                                                                                                         four  state  police  officers
            Unlike  the  Tijuana-Imperial                                                                                       who  rode  through  quickly
            Beach border on the west-                                                                                           on  two  ATVS  and  just  as
            ern  end,  here  there  are                                                                                         quickly left.
            no  steel  pilings  marching                                                                                        According  to  the  DEA,
            out to sea to stop migrants                                                                                         small  fishing  boats  load
            from  swimming,  wading  or                                                                                         drugs in Playa Bagdad and
            paddling across to the Unit-                                                                                        run  it  up  the  coast  to  Pa-
            ed States.                                                                                                          dre  Island,  in  Texas.  Other
            In  Playa  Bagdad,  which  is                                                                                       boats  are  known  to  drop
            spelled  'Playa  Baghdad'                                                                                           off  goods  which  are  then
            by  the  Drug  Enforcement                                                                                          loaded  onto  vehicles  and
            Agency, it's apparently un-                                                                                         taken into the U.S. by high-
            necessary:  This  is  a  beach                                                                                      way.
            for drugs and crime, not mi-                                                                                        Some  of  the  border  cross-
            grants.                                                                                                             ings  themselves  are  under
            As attention focuses on the                                                                                         de  facto  cartel  control  on
            migrant crisis along the bor-  In this Aug. 2, 2019 photo, seagulls fly over food trucks in Playa Bagdad close to the mouth of the   the Mexican side.
            der  that  has  drawn  harsh   Rio Grande, near the border city of Matamoros, Mexico.                               One  man  who  was  fishing
            rhetoric  and  actions  from                                                                       Associated Press  with  friends  at  the  mouth
            President  Donald  Trump,                                                                                           of the Rio Grande, recalled
            Playa  Bagdad  seems  to  grants away.                    one  story  which  maintains  business anymore because  seeing  a  would-be  border
            have escaped notice.         "They  want  to  keep  the  that  the  U.S.  Army  might  everything  was  controlled  crosser who cartel gunmen
            Here, there are no walls or  heat off this spot," said Mar-  have stationed some cam-  by the mafia," Álvarez said.  brought back from the river
            border  guards,  just  miles  co  Antonio  Álvarez,  a  rail-  els at Playa Bagdad during  The  city  of  Matamoros,  between the two countries
            of  dunes  and  Gulf  coast  thin old man with a greying  its  experiments  with  those  whose   territory   covers  at gunpoint.
            beaches  marked  only  by  beard and leather-like skin  animals in the 19th century.   Playa  Bagdad,  touts  the  "They  pointed  guns  at  him
            simple wooden huts or aw-    toughened by the sun.        But contraband has always  beach  as  a  great  tourist  and brought him back," he
            nings held up by sticks.     Álvarez, who spent time in  been  here  in  one  form  or  destination.                said. "If you want to cross, it
            The  only  highway  ends  U.S.  jails  for  migrant  smug-  another. Centuries back, sil-  But  Álvarez  said  that  drug  is with them."
            abruptly  in  a  handful  of  gling, says he still gets paid  ver was trafficked through.  cartels  completely  control  He was one of the few who
            structures  populated  by  $300 per month — he won't  During  Prohibition,  alcohol  it.                            were  willing  to  talk,  and
            beachgoers  looking  for  al-  say  by  whom  —  to  watch  could be procured. And in  "You  have  to  pay  them  a  even  then,  the  conversa-
            cohol  and  fishermen  who  the  expanse  of  water  and  the 1980s and 1990s, it was  quota and get their permis-  tion died down every time
            might  catch  sharks  one  two boats.                     marijuana  and  Colombian  sion," he notes.               a boat passed. "You never
            day  and  unload  cocaine  "If people start crossing the  cocaine that made its way  For  years,  the  violent  state  know who is listening," said
            the next.                    river, you start seeing (CBP)  across.                    of  Tamaulipas,  where  Pla-  the man, declining to give
            On  the  U.S.  side,  there  is  patrol vehicles show up on  DEA Special Agent Sammy  ya Bagdad is located, has  his name.
            not  much  more  besides  a  the  other  side,"  said  Álva-  Parks  said  Playa  Bagdad  been ruled by silence and  There are more than 6,000
            single Customs and Border  rez,  who  usually  sits  shel-  is  now  a  center  for  load-  fear, and the state govern-  disappeared  persons  in
            Protection  checkpoint,  a  tered  from  the  sun  in  the  ing  and  unloading  drugs  ment  itself  is  suspected  of  Tamaulipas alone.
            gun  store  complete  with  shade  of  an  old  plywood  bound for the U.S. market.    having  been  infiltrated  by  "Mass  graves  have  been
            a  shooting  range,  and  a  camper  that  once  served  "It  is  a  short,  easy  route  drug  gangs,  with  two  for-  discovered  in  the  Playa
            SpaceX     hangar    where  as a seafood stand.           without much law enforce-    mer governors currently on  Baghdad area, and there's
            some  rockets  that  might  Playa  Bagdad  appeared  ment," added Vigil.               trial on corruption charges.  a local threat about being
            reach  Mars  are  being  on maps in 1848, when the  Of  the  1,215  members  of  One of the key drug-cartels  'taken to the beach,' which
            tested.  The  nearest  city  of  border  was  drawn  during  the  National  Guard  that  operating in the area is the  implies someone will disap-
            Brownsville, Texas is 25 miles  the Mexico-American War.   Mexico  has  deployed  to  now-splintered Gulf Cartel.   pear,"  said  Parks,  the  DEA
            (40 kilometers) away.        Later,  it  became  the  sea-  Tamaulipas, none are seen  In  2000,  the  Gulf  Cartel's  agent.
            Where  the  two  countries  port for cotton produced in  in Playa Bagdad. They are  armed  enforcement  wing,  The  only  official  presence
            meet  lies  an  expanse  of  Texas during the Civil War.  mainly  in  the  conflictive  The Zetas, split and began  is  a  sandbag  guard  post
            water perhaps 25 yards (23  The  origin  of  the  settle-  border  cities  further  west  an  all-out  offensive.  The  on  the  highway  between
            meters)  wide,  so  shallow  ment's  name  is  lost  to  the  along the Rio Grande Val-  Zetas  later  split  themselves  Playa  Bagdad  and  Mat-
            that you could walk across  annals  of  history.  A  ship  ley.                        again,  but  still  control  the  amoros,  although  locals
            at low tide, but few people  might  have  run  aground  Three  decades  ago,  peo-     westernmost  part  of  the  protested  at  the  post  this
            do.                          and  been  looted  there,  a  ple  like  Álvarez  combined  state,  while  the  Gulf  Car-  month,  saying  it  was  only
            The  reason  it's  kept  under  scene  that  might  have  re-  fishing  with  small-scale  mi-  tel  has  also  splintered  and  used to demand bribes.
            wraps is simple: Cartels tend  minded  some  of  the  "Ali  grant  smuggling,  guiding  controls the east.          For  Álvarez,  "the  Guard"
            to use these coastal plains  Baba  and  the  40  Thieves."  people  across  to  Browns-  The  federal  government  doesn't mean President An-
            for  purposes  like  transport-  Or the person who named  ville for $20 per head. That  did not respond to requests  drés  Manuel  López  Obra-
            ing drugs — or as the DEA  it might have been a fan of  all ended in the 1980s and  for comment, although the  dor's National Guard either.
            notes,   dumping    bodies  "The 1,001 and Nights."       1990s.                       current  state  government  Instead  it  means  "former
            clandestinely. And they put  Mike Vigil, a former DEA op-  "When  they  started  to  sell  headed  by  an  opposition-  soldiers, marines and police
            a  premium  at  keeping  mi-  eration chief, remembered  crack,  you  couldn't  do  party  governor  says  it  is  who report to the gangs."q
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