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Chapter 9

BELAYING TECHNIQUES

BELAY TERMINOLOGY
Independent Belay- The act of using a rope as a “backup” or “safety” to prevent a
person or load from taking a serious fall. In two rope systems, it is a separate rope
managed by someone other than the attendant.

Self-Belay- Protection against a fall is provided by a climber/rescuer moving their
adjustable auto locking connection point along a fixed rope. This connection point
remains un-tensioned unless a fall occurs (e.g. Prusik or autoblock).
Conditional Belay- Fall protection is provided through the use of a rope, that is already
under tension from part or all of the load, to hold the load should failure occur in some
other part of the system (e.g. mirrored rope system, bottom belay on rappel).
Auto Belay- A positive auto locking device (deadman) that does not require a positive
action to engage it (e.g. Tandem Prusik Belay)
-adapted from Belay Definitions, originally prepared by Arnör Larson, Rigging For Rescue.

BELAYING A PERSONAL (SINGLE PERSON) LOAD

A manual (body/hip belay) is not used for rescue applications. Besides being unsafe if

not performed correctly, during rescue operations there exists the need to remain
independent of your belay system for flexibility. Mechanical belay devices for controlling
a single-person load include Petzl Grigri 2, Petzl Reverso, Petzl I’D, Black Diamond
ATC, Wild Country Variable Controller, Trango Jaws, Trango Pyramid, CMC MPD or
Italian Hitch (Figure 85).

Figure 84- Belay Devices. © Black Diamond and Petzl.

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