Page 123 - demo
P. 123
Clovelly
Clovelley is a privately owned village and has been since the days of Queen Elizabeth 1. Cars are
not allowed in the town and you have to pay an entrance fee to go there. It also covers parking at
the Visitor Centre. It’s worth it . . . the town has been carefully preserved over the centuries and
even today restoration work is carried out to the highest standards of authenticity. Your entrance
fee finances that work. The main street is so steep that back in the day donkeys were used to tote
the heavy fishermen’s baskets up from the harbour. The donkeys are still there today, though
their workload is a lot lighter. They give rides to children in summer. A selfie with a Clovelly
donkey is a must.
Tintagel
History and legend are inseparable at Tintagel. During the so-called Dark Ages (about the 5th to
the 7th centuries AD) it was an important stronghold, and probably a residence of rulers
of Cornwall. Many fragments of luxury pottery imported from the Mediterranean were left behind
by those who lived here.
It was probably memories of this seat of Cornish kings that inspired the 12th-century writer
Geoffrey of Monmouth to name it in his History of the Kings of Britain as the place where King
Arthur was conceived, with the help of Merlin. At the same time, Cornish and Breton writers linked
the love story of Tristan and Iseult with Tintagel.
In turn, these associations with legend led the hugely rich and ambitious Richard, Earl of Cornwall,
to build a castle here in the 1230s. The site was of no military value – legend alone seems to have
inspired him to build here. And long after the castle had fallen into decay, its mythical associations
kept interest in Tintagel alive.
Writer Richard Bryson in his hilarious book “The Road To Little Dribbling”, a memoir about visits to
all sorts of places in Britain, was completely underwhelmed by Tintagel. He described it thus: “It
was a spectacularly unmemorable place, consisting primarily of a single street lined with shops
selling mostly New Age tat”. Whether or no, his book is well worth a good read before you visit
Britain, as is his earlier book “Notes From a Small Island”.
Stratton
A jumble of quaint houses on narrow streets. The Tree Inn pub (50.8302,-
4.5141) in Fore St is particularly notable. It was the birthplace and home of
the last of the Cornish giants, Anthony Payne (pictured), who stood 7ft 4in
and weighed in at 532lbs (241kg). He led the Royalist army at the Battle of
Stamford Hill in 1643, a battle which, not surprisingly with a weapon like that
on their side, was won by the Royalists. Despite his considerable size he was
nimble and quick witted.
Boscastle
The Museum of Witchcraft and Magic explores British magical practice, making comparisons with
other systems of belief, from ancient times to the present day.
Padstow
A working fishing port, is probably best known for celebrity chef Rick Stein’s Fish Restaurant. You
have to book months in advance apparently. He also has a Fish and Chip Shop where you can