Page 81 - Dez2017
P. 81

seine Trauben auf dem Boden.
In jenem Jahr machte das führende Weingut an der Saar Minus. Und dennoch hat Müller aus dieser Zeit etwas behalten, was ihm wertvoll ist: das Verständnis seines strengen Vaters. „Es wäre einfach gewesen, zu sagen: Du dummer Junge, schau, was du angerichtet hast. Indem er
Bitburger, Roman Niewodniczanski, has had an old monastery renovated. Van Volxem, the name of his winery, is written on a brass plate next to the door. Niewodniczanski is a two-metre tall man with full lips, blue eyes, sinewy forearms and long blonde hair that he ties back into a plait. Roman Niewodniczanski is the pop star among the Scharzhofberg winemakers. He says that wants to be for wine, what his ancestors were for beer, „one of the leading companies in Germany“.
If you ask him what distinguishes Egon Müller‘s wines from the others, he opens up the historical perspective  rst, serving one hundred year old wine cards from the Ritz in Paris, from the Ritz- Carlton in New York, where Saar wines were considered the best - before their long demise began: „World War II, the Holocaust,“ which brought about the expulsion and murder of Jewish wine merchants, who had exported wine
all over the world. The image loss of German wine in the „ ‚68 period, during which anything German appeared to be poor, narrow-minded, and have a brown-tinged appearance“. Then  nally the „Wine Act of 71“, in which layers and levels of quality expanded so much, that even sweetened blends could be marketed as great wines - this all led German wine into a long depression which fell on the Saar, lasting until around 2000. In the midst of the horror, a stubborn elderly gentleman: Egon Müller III, who refused to participate in the big sell-out, says Niewodniczanski, and maintained a level of quality with which the winery stood alone for some time. „And what we are doing here today, and for this I‘m working like crazy, is to get rid of this dreadful image that German wine has across
the world.“
His own wines from Scharzhofberg are currently available for € 26 to € 38. They taste different from Müller‘s, and are drier. According to Niewodniczanski, they taste like they would have done in 1900, „in the golden age of the Saar wines“.
Annegret Reh-Gartner also produces mainly dry wines. Reh-Gartner is a petite woman of around sixty, who took over the winery Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in the 1980s from her father, a sparkling wine manufacturer. Sweet wines, as Müller produces, would traditionally have counted as great vintages. But thanks to the glycol scandal in 1985, they have gone out of fashion, and since only a vineyard of reputation of Egon
ihm können.“
Am 30. Mai 2015 lässt Müller zum ersten Mal spritzen: Flint, ein Breitband-Fungizid von Bayer, das sowohl gegen Echten Mehltau als auch gegen Schwarzfäule wirkt.
nichts sagte, hat er mir verstehen gegeben: Das hätte auch passieren
zu
81


































































































   79   80   81   82   83