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Plate 7.9 Anonymous, Official
                                                                                        Portrait of Empress Zhang,
                                                                                        Wife of the Hongxi Emperor,
                                                                                        Ming dynasty, Beijing. Album
                                                                                        leaf, ink and colours on silk,
                                                                                        height 65.5cm, width 51.5cm.
                                                                                        National Palace Museum,
                                                                                        Taipei

            described as a ‘dragon crown’. This ‘dragon crown’ is   The observation that the dragon was a principal emblem
            repeated in the subsequent portrait of Empress Sun 孫    of the early Ming empress has broader implications that are
            (d. 1462) (Pl. 7.10), the wife of the Xuande 宣德 emperor    worth considering. In the Statutes, sumptuary laws that
            (r. 1426–35), and to a lesser extent in the portrait of Empress   dictate imperial and royal dress refer to ceremonial objects
            Qian 錢 (d. 1468) (Pl. 7.11), wife of the Zhengtong 正統   made of different materials, not only textiles and jewellery.
            emperor (r. 1436–49), the last emperor of the period in   Empresses’ objects that were made of other materials and
            question. There is indication that this design was not purely   also decorated with dragon motifs include a jade belt, a jade
            pictorial, but may be based on actual practice. The Statutes   hanging pendant, a wooden stand for her seal and a wooden
            record that a woman chosen to be empress first received her   container for her gilded conferring document.  Given its
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            set of routine ceremonial costume together with her   wider application, perhaps the empress’ association with the
            conferring document and other gifts while she was at her   dragon or dragon-and-phoenix motifs could be extended
            natal home in a process known as naji 納吉 (presenting the   beyond costume to imperial furnishing more broadly, such
            auspicious).  Notably, the crown she receives is named in the   as lacquer wares, porcelain and other items that decorated
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            text as Jinlong zhucui yanju guan 金龍珠翠燕居冠 (‘Swallow   the spaces inhabited by imperial women. For example,
            residence’ crown with gold dragon, pearls and kingfisher   consider the impressive carved red lacquer table in the
            feathers; ‘swallow residence’ refers here to a more informal   Victoria and Albert Museum collection dated to the Xuande
            crown).  This suggests that it was the dragon which was   period that was most likely produced in the imperial lacquer
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            recognised as the identifying motif of the crown for an   workshop known as the ‘Orchard Factory’ (Guoyuanchang
            empress’ routine court dress.                      果園廠) (Pl. 7.12). The drawer fronts and top of the table



                                               The Empress’ Dragon Crown: Establishing Symbols of Imperial Authority in the Early Ming | 73
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