Page 15 - Bonhams GANBEI A Toast To Wine Culture, Hong Kong Nov 30 2022
P. 15

Fig.1 Pottery amphora, Yotkan, Xinjiang,    Fig. 2 Blue and white stem cup,    Fig. 3 Doucai wine cup,
           2nd-3rd century                   Yuan Dynasty                     Chenghua
           Image courtesy of British Museum   Image courtesy of British Museum  Image courtesy of National Palace Museum, Taiwan





           The evolution of wine vessels has been closely related to the   As one of the earliest products of the material civilization of
           evolution of the alcoholic beverages themselves. Wine vessels   mankind, wine was especially reflected in the spiritual civilization
           were quite large during Shang and Zhou dynasties due to the   in China. Whereas wine was a part of the ritual system in Zhou
           low alcohol concentration back then, and the fact it requires one   Dynasty, it was also incorporated in the rituals of Confucianism,
           to chug the wine together with its residue upon consumption as   Buddhism, Taoism and even folk beliefs in subsequent generations
           the two were yet to be separated at the time. Meanwhile, filtered   as a medium to channel deities and spirits of ancestors. After
           wine which is similar to today’s Japanese sake, also did exist back  seeing increasing use in the secular realm, wine was essentially the
           then, acting as a clarified variety during the era. From Shang and   catalyst for inspiring literary creations, with its initial peak being Wei
           Zhou to Tang and Song Dynasties, no matter how the name of the  to Eastern Jin Dynasties, where literary works and activities were
           wine changed, brewing method remained solely by fermentation   all centred around wine. Tang and Song Dynasties saw another
           and filtration. Even with repeated fermentation, it was difficult for   spike in wine-related poems and verses. These literary allusions
           the resulting alcohol concentration to exceed 20 degrees. The   related to wine later became the subject of artistic creation in Ming
           volume of wine vessels, therefore, was often relatively large. Verses  and Qing Dynasties (Lot 132 and 147).
           claim ancient people easily "drink three hundred cups at a time
           "(Li Bai, 701-762) was not due to ancient people having a higher   At a time when Maotai, a local stilled wine in Guizhou, is repeatedly
           tolerance towards alcohol intake than modern people, but instead   sold at sky-high prices, it is worth noting that China has a long
           simply because the alcohol concentration was lower. Currently, the  history and diverse origins of wine brewery. After the introduction
           academia considers that distilled wine was introduced to China   of distilled wine into China, almost all other previous brews
           during Yuan Dynasty; as the degree of alcohol concentration   became literary terms, while only Shaoxing wine persevered to
           multiplied, it would be consequently impossible for one to chug   exist until now. Ming and Qing courts mainly consumed rice wine
           like before. Li Shizhen (1518-1593), a patron saint of Chinese   as well, as Maotai did not come to prominence until 1950s, and it
           herbal medicine, even considered shaojiu (distilled wine) as a   was not until the 1980s for drinking to become a burden of work.
           "poison" and should not be consumed too much. Therefore, wine   Far from what nowadays’ wine gatherings can ever compare, wine
           glasses since the Ming Dynasty became increasingly smaller, the   consumption in the past was an embodiment of many mystic,
           most famous being the small doucai cups of Chenghua period   poetic and artistic possibilities.
           (1464-1487) (fig.3). Verses about lavish drinking activities also
           dwindled as a result.





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