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rating the Holy Family’s flight to Egypt to escape Roman
         persecution, and Ben Ezra Synagogue which was
         originally a church, still stand after 2,000 years and attract
         curious tourists. Even today Christians constitute 6 percent
         of Egypt’s population of 99 million.
           In the Islamic Quarter of the Great Citadel built by
         salah El Din in 1176 is the Mohamed Ali Mosque, bet-
         ter known as the Alabaster Mosque, emblem of the Cairo
         Governate, built in 1830 by Mohamed Ali, an Albanian
         sent to Egypt to free the country from Napoleon’s occupa-
         tion. A Byzantine style structure, it’s reminiscent of the
         Blue Mosque of Istanbul.
           Heading south from Cairo towards Memphis, the    Abu Simbel Temple
         ancient capital of the country, one passes through contem-
         porary rural Egypt. Although, undoubtedly a third world
         nation, in sharp contrast with rural India, every village   onwards). Mid-range: Concorde (Rs.5,250 onwards),
         household is supplied with water and electricity, made   President (Rs.5,100-6,375), Pharaoh Egypt (Rs.2,150-
         available through harnessing the river Nile and Aswan   3,150), Budget: Delta Pyramids (Rs.1,350-3,000).
         Dam. Moreover, a striking feature of modern Egypt is that
         every child is educated, despite poverty and overpopula-  abu SiMbEL
         tion. Child labour is rampant but government policy en-  The best way to explore the pharaonic splendour of luxor
         sures that children are simultaneously educated in schools   and Aswan in upper Egypt is to sail down the Nile. The
         run by their employers.                          river is crowded with all manner of exotic luxury steamers,
                                                          the oldest being the Death on the Nile steamer. But there’s
         MEMPhiS                                          also a French boat with a waterfall in the lobby and an
         This ancient capital of the pharaohs, had known centuries   Italian cruiser with a 24-hour cappuccino bar offering 20
         of great splendour. In the city centre the famous architect   varieties of pizza. The embarkation point is either luxor
         Imhotep Bel, built a great citadel. Today it’s an open-air   or Aswan. Most people usually take a three-day cruise, but
         museum displaying vast ruins, truncated columns, walls   longer duration cruises are also available.
         and statues which are mute testimony to the glory of   We flew into Aswan at 4 a.m and headed for Simbel,
         pharaonic Egypt. With the rise and growth of Alexandria,   a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Aswan, undertaken
         Memphis was progressively abandoned and fell to ruin.  usually in convoy, because security at all important tourist
         Sakkarah. A mere 22 km from Memphis is sakkarah.   spots is tight. A visit to Abu simbel is worth loss of sleep.
         Dominating its skyline is the oldest pyramid constructed by   Ramses the Great carved this magnificent temple out of
         the first great pharaoh of the old kingdom, Zoser, in 2,700   a mountain between 1274 and 1244 BCE to imprint his
         BCE. The necropolis at sakkarah, which stretches eight   persona on history and perpetuate his memory. Four colos-
         km, is the largest in Egypt, in the middle of which is the   sal statues of his likeness, seated at the entrance, welcome
         grandiose funerary complex of Zoser.             visitors to Abu simbel. Three millennia on, this awesome
         Shopping in Cairo. The buzzing Khan-el-Khalili   monument of self-celebration continues to attract thou-
         Market, a 14th century labyrinthine souk, is pure theatre.   sands of international tourists annually.
         The crowds are dense and overfriendly shopkeepers liter-  Two thousand years later the challenges confronting
         ally pounce on visitors with their sales pitch and seem   Ramses the Great’s engineers were posed to engineers of
         to be particularly enamoured of Indians. The bazaar is   the global community who had to save these great monu-
         choc-a-bloc with alabaster artefacts, papyrus paintings,   ments from the waters of the Nile, which rose following
         perfumes, handblown glass perfume bottles, hookahs/  the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1970. With each
         sheeshas, spices, carpets and gold jewellery, gold and   statue 20 metres tall and faces measuring 4 metres from
         silver cartouches on which visitors’ names are inscribed in   ear to ear, they are symbols of the attributes of the mighty
         hieroglyphics as a memento of an Egyptian holiday. Yet for   Ramses.
         visitors to this cradle of civilisation, there’s more on offer.   The danger that this great heritage complex would be
         The 21st century is very much in evidence in luxurious   covered by the water of the artificial lake made Unesco set
         hotels, busy casinos and lively nightclubs, making Cairo a   up two commissions to salvage them. The removal of the
         most intriguing vacation destination.            temple from the original site with all statues and effigies
         Accommodation. Top-end: Four seasons Cairo 1st   was barely completed in time. By the end of the summer
         Residence (Rs.21,000-313,600 per night), Mena House   of 1965, the waters of the Nile slowly filled the now deso-
         Oberoi Cairo (Rs.13,500-42,000), Grand Hyatt (Rs.10,500   late caverns where the temples once stood.



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