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A30    FEATURE
                     Monday 3 august 2020
            Champagne losing its fizz as global pandemic clobbers sales



            By THOMAS ADAMSON                                                                                                   strategy  for  his,  and  other
            REIMS,  France  (AP)  —                                                                                             champagne      companies,
            Champagne is losing its fizz.                                                                                       will  seek  to  highlight  the
            For  months,  lockdown  put                                                                                         wine's status as a naturally,
            the cork on weddings, din-                                                                                          and often organically, pro-
            ing out, parties and interna-                                                                                       duced quality drink from a
            tional travel — all key sales                                                                                       historic French region.
            components for the French                                                                                           "Even  if  the  bars  and  the
            luxury  wine  marketed  for                                                                                         nightclubs  are  closed  for
            decades  as  a  sparkling                                                                                           five  years,  we  don't  plan
            must at any celebration.                                                                                            on  missing  out  on  custom-
            Producers in France's east-                                                                                         ers  ...  There  will  be  a  very
            ern  Champagne  region,                                                                                             big change to our market-
            headquarters of the global                                                                                          ing that highlights the gran-
            industry, say they've lost an                                                                                       deur of our wines," Vranken
            estimated  1.7  billion  euros                                                                                      said.
            ($2  billion)  in  sales  for  this                                                                                 Selosse,   who   produces
            year,  as  turnover  fell  by  a                                                                                    many    "natural"   cham-
            third  —  a  hammering  un-                                                                                         pagnes with no added sug-
            matched in living memory,                                                                                           ar, also hopes the pandem-
            and  worse  than  the  Great                                                                                        ic  will  encourage  thought
            Depression.                                                                                                         about  future  champagne
            They expect about 100 mil-                                                                                          marketing  and  how  the
            lion bottles to be languish-                                                                                        multi-billion dollar industry is
            ing unsold in their cellars by                                                                                      restructured. He would like
            the end of the year.                                                                                                to see a more cooperative
            "We are experiencing a cri-                                                                                         side to production, such as
            sis that we evaluate to be                                                                                          "communal  wine  presses"
            even worse than the Great                                                                                           to  help  pool  the  costs  for
            Depression"  of  1929,  said                                                                                        smaller producers.
            Thibaut  Le  Mailloux  of  the                                                                                      Selosse   said   adaptabil-
            Champagne  Committee,        Champagne bottles for tasters are displayed in the cave of Champagne producer Anselme Sel-  ity has served champagne
            known  by  its  French  acro-  osse in Avize, in the Champagne region, east of Paris, Tuesday, July 28, 2020.       well  in  the  past,  helping  it
            nym  CIVC,  that  represents                                                                      Associated Press  evolve from a dessert wine
            some 16,000 winemakers.                                                                                             in  the  19th  century  to  the
            Recognizing  the  urgency  sult  to  nature"  that  cham-  Vranken-Pommery  predict  now, there is no way out —  modern  day  dry  version
            of the problem, the CIVC is  pagne's  famous  grapes  that the crisis could last for  unless we find a vaccine."    named "brut."
            launching  unprecedented  might even be destined to  years.                            Vranken  said  the  very  es-  He  even  thinks  —  but  this
            damage-limitation     mea-   produce  alcohol  for  hand  "It  should  not  be  forgot-  sence of champagne mar-    is  a  minority  view  among
            sures.  Like  oil-producing  sanitizer,  as  is  happening  ten that (champagne) has  keting -- as a drink quaffed  producers  —  the  industry
            countries,  the  committee  in other wine-producing re-   lived  through  every  single  at  parties  and  weddings  could move away from ef-
            regulates  the  size  of  the  gions  such  as  Alsace  after  war,"  said  Paul-Francois  --  needs  to  be  re-evaluat-  fervescence  and  be  able
            harvest each year to avoid  demand spiked during the  Vranken,  founder  of  Vran-     ed  to  reflect  the  new  nor-  to produce all sorts of wine,
            the kind of excess produc-   pandemic.                    ken-Pommery  Monopole.  mal: Fewer festivities and a  as  it  did  in  the  past:  red,
            tion that would cause bot-   "We  are  to  destroy  (the  "But  with  the  other  crises,  lack  of  celebratory  group  white or still.
            tle  prices  to  plummet.  At  grapes)  and  we  pay  for  there  was  a  way  out.  For  events.  The  new  branding  In fact, literally no fizz.q
            a  meeting  scheduled  for  them to be destroyed," Sel-
            Aug.  18,  it's  expected  to  osse said, referring to the in-
            impose a cap so tight that  dustry as a whole. "It's noth-
            record quantities of grapes  ing but a catastrophe."
            will  be  destroyed  or  sold  "Champagne  has  never
            to  distilleries  at  discounted  lived   through   anything
            prices.                      like  this  before,  even  in
            The prospect alarms small-   the  World  Wars,"  Selosse
            er  producers,  who  are  added.  "We  have  never
            more  vulnerable  than  the  experienced  ...  a  sudden
            big houses.                  one-third fall in sales. Over
            Anselme      Selosse,    of  one hundred million bottles
            Jacques  Selosse  Cham-      unsold."
            pagnes,  called  it  "an  in-  Major  producers  such  as













                                                                      View of the Champagne vineyards in Avize, in the Champagne region, east of Paris, Tuesday, July
                                                                      28, 2020.
                                                                                                                                            Associated Press
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