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Thursday 24 augusT 2023 locAl
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Episode 39: A scientific journey across the island- Part II

ORANJESTAD — Arriving at Saint Fontein, but because it is impos- diaries before going to rest and
Nicolaas, Prof. Martin continues to sible to traverse the low limestone to bestow the stones safely, as it is
this town situated on the bay with plateau stretching jaggedly be- better, considering the extremely
the same name. This is the port of tween Fontein and Colorado, there primitive conditions of life here, to
the phosphate mines of Colorado, was no alternative but to take the do by daylight than when darkness
consisting only of a few buildings road along the north coast of the has set in. At Fontein in particular
belonging to the mine company. island. Sand, blinding sand, that this proved to be the best thing,
Its harbor has been improved by is the plain between the plateau for only here did we fully perceive
the management of the mines and and the coast, with here and there how little prepared we were for
connected by a railroad with Cero some shrubs of so-called grapes, anything in the nature of a journey
Colorado. “Incredible all what has a serious obstacle to the progress of some days on Aruba. This real-
been dug up. An enormous mass of of our heavily loaded animals. The ization came upon us unawares;
phosphate lies piled up, mainly fer- boys with the pack-donkeys were neither on Curacao nor during
riferous and for this reason not yet soon lagging behind, which forced our short stay at Oranjestad had
exported, the government dues for me to load the stones I was collect- we gained an insight into the true
this grade being too high for it to ing on to my own donkey, a proce- poverty of the island. Thanks to the
be sold with profit. The chief man- dure attended with many difficul- good care of Evertsz of Colorado,
ager, whom we met here, cordially ties. At first I was aided by the pis- who had given our guide some
welcomed us, and in his company tol-holsters of the Spanish saddle, additional provisions along on his
we rode to his house at the foot whose faded stitching bore wit- way, we at least had something to
of Colorado, where we spent the ness to its having seen better days; eat. One half of a pewter spoon of
night and half of the next morning.” but these were soon full, and so I which the front half, the one nor-
crammed my treasures anyhow mally used to scoop up the food,
“On the morrow, January 30, I into the pockets of my clothes. This was lacking, our clasp-knives, a
viewed the rich phosphate mines of greatly troubled my long-ears, as small bowl and an old water-jug,
Cero Colorado. We also visited the the stones were bumping against such was our table-ware…
east-side of the mountain, where will have succeeded in effacing his body at every step, so that we
already in the previous century a the last traces of human labor by were finally obliged to give up our This story will continue.
German mining expert wielded the burying the shaft in their laps and attempt to ride on in advance, To get to know more about Aruba’s
axe in order to examine the quartz putting the stamp of inviolate lone- and waited for the pack-animals stories of origins, about animals and
found in the rock here for its gold- liness so typical of the entire region to come up, however much we culture, art and desert gardens,
content. However rich a harvest upon this mine too; for lonely these disliked doing so in the scorching visit our native at Etnia Nativa. Our
suchlike galleries may have yield- rocks are”. afternoon heat, which was occa- renowned cultural encounter ses-
ed afterwards on this island; his toil sionally alleviated when the trade sion has been entertaining curious
did not find its reward, so that he After a description of the land- wind wafted some coolness to- participants for decades. Mail us
had to abandon his ill-starred proj- scape Professor Martin tells about ward us. at etnianativa03@gmail.com to
ect. The abandoned mine made his journey to Fontein. confirm your participation. Our
by him has now been flooded by “At half past five we arrived at facilities and activities take place
sea-water and soon the waves “We turned off in the direction of Fontein, just in time to write up our close to high rise hotels.q