Page 259 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
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Figure 6-63F. Finishing off the first end of the stitch.
                   The stitch finishes, as it began, with each needle
                   making a complete round turn. Reef-Knot the ends
                   together and cut off flush with the leather.



                     is excellent stuff. It’s tough, elastic, and durable,
                     but thin enough that it won’t look clunky
                     in place. If you apply it over stainless, rub a
                     generous amount of anhydrous lanolin (available
                     from druggists) into the wire first to minimize
                     oxygen starvation. Tar and serve galvanized wire
                     before leathering.
                  •  Always turn the stitches away from chafe. When
                     leathering nonfeathering oars, run the seam in
                     line with the blade edge. With feathering oars,
                     run it a little aft of the edge so that it won’t
                     chafe against the forward side of the oarlock as  Figure 6-63G. Stitching the second half of the leather.
                     you feather. Row for a bit before leathering; the
                     chafe marks will show where the middle of the   level, one of you on either side, and commence
                     leather should be. If the boat has more than one   stitching, hauling tight after each pass. With a
                     rowing station or a sculling notch, you’ll want an   bit of practice you’ll work into a pleasant little
                     extra-long leather to accommodate the different   choreography.
                     bearing points. Especially for feathering and  •  For the neatest job, bevel the meeting edges back
                     sculling oars, it’s good to glue the wood and   from the finished face of the leather and make the
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                     leather together with contact cement before   piece slightly undersized ( ⁄16 to  ⁄8 inch, depending
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                     stitching.                                  on the elasticity of the leather you’re using) so
                  •  If your twine does chafe through sometime,     that the leather will stretch to fill the gap.
                     anchor the repair strand(s) and the original  •  Rub liberal amounts of neats-foot oil or other
                     strand(s) under the first several stitches you   conditioner into both sides of the leather before
                     take. This is far better than tying a knot in the   sewing, and renew the coating periodically on
                     end of the twine, as that knot is liable to pull   the outside, after installation.
                     through under strain.                     •  Always leather soft eyes (Figure 6-64) before
                  •  Two people with needles can make this stitch go   splicing; it is so much easier to leather in a
                     very quickly indeed: Set the work up at waist   straight line. To leather grommets or to re-leather

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