Page 29 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

eventually succumb to fatigue and the desire for a
warm meal. Derek and I are equally skilled AMGA
Certified Rock Guides. There doesn’t seem to be any-
one else at the crag today, so we don’t need to serve
as role models or mentor anyone. This is our day off.
The first rope-related task that I must complete is to
tie in to the end of the rope. Context makes a huge
difference:
• Sport climbing: likely to load the rope repeatedly
and violently with large dynamic loads
• Equally skilled and proficient partner
• No one at the crag to mentor, supervise, or be a
role model for
Next, what are my Options? I could use a figure
8 follow through or any number of variations on a
bowline, or I could clip a figure 8 with a bight with
a pair of locking carabiners. The more options I have,
the more difficult my decision making will be. But
that doesn’t mean that I should be afraid of options or
difficult decisions. I just need to thoroughly under-
stand the options that I know, and also be willing to
forget about the options that are consistently useless.
Having climbed a long time and experimented with
lots of different knots, I know that these knots are
consistently tie-in options:
• Figure 8 follow through
• Double bowline with pass through the harness and
a Yosemite finish
• Figure 8 on a bight with a pair of opposite and
opposed locking carabiners
What are the Pros and Cons of each of those
options? If I want to evaluate the pros and cons, then

16 CLIMBING: KNOTS