Page 33 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

Guide’s Insight

I remember early in my climbing career, I learned
how absolutely strong and durable the belay loop
of a harness is constructed to be. I learned that
it is stronger than the carabiners we often attach
to it, stronger than the climbing rope itself. So I
reasoned that I could tie in to it with a climbing
rope. In my reasoning, tying in to the belay loop
would require less material than passing through
the hard points of the harness, it would be easi-
er to visually inspect since the belay loop is not
pressed against a climber’s body, I could tie in
friends without putting my hands too close to their
groins, and the belay would be more than strong
and durable enough to survive the application. I
climbed in this manner for several months, and I
explained my reasoning to climbers who quizzed
me on the practice. Finally, I met someone who
had deliberated on this application longer than I
had. She explained to me that the harnesses’ hard
points were designed to endure the wear and tear
of the climbing rope, and that I would someday
find a need to keep my belay loop unencumbered
and free to clip objects to it. Lastly, she reasoned
with me that the harness manufacturer designed

20 CLIMBING: KNOTS