Page 28 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

common solutions to the most frequent contexts that
we encounter as rock climbers, climbing instructors,
and guides.
However, this chapter also should prepare a climber
to work in contexts with which we are unfamiliar.
It should provide a tool for deciding whether to use
knots and hitches that we have never even heard of.
In other words, this chapter should prepare a climber
to be a student of the rope, the craft, and the sport.
If a reader of this book is simply using the knots and
hitches we suggest because we say so, then this chapter,
and this entire book, will be an unfortunate failure.

COPE Decision Making

Every time the rope is used, every time a knot or
hitch is selected, use the following application heuris-
tic to see if you can COPE with your decision.
Context—What is the context of the ropework?
Options—Given everything I know how to do and
all the tools that I have, what are my options?
Pros and Cons—What are the pros and cons of each
option?
Experiment—Now that I have made my decision,
I’m going to experiment with it to see if my reasoning
is sound.
Here is how it works: It all starts with Context.
Let’s say that my friend Derek and I are going sport
climbing at a small local crag. There is going to be
leading and falling and hang-dogging, and general
sport climbing shenanigans. Derek and I want to
warm up, push our limits, get totally worked, and

The Application Heuristic 15