Page 62 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 62

Tying two overhand knots in line, on a sling or
             cordellette, allows anchor builders to use the magic
             X anchor more convincingly. It is now redundant, and
             extension potential has been greatly limited.


             redundant, self-adjusting, and strong system. However,
             in Spectra or Dyneema slings, these load-limiting
             knots can be difficult to untie after sustained cyclical
             loads, like the kinds of loads applied by a toprope.


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