Page 63 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 63

Doubled Cordellette with Load-
       Limiting Overhand Knots: The Quad
       When load-limiting overhand knots are tied into a
       doubled-over cordellette or extra-long sling, the result
       is also a redundant, self-adjusting, and strong anchor-
       ing system. Unlike a sling, the load-limiting overhand
       knots tied into the quad are composed of four strands
       of cordellette. The bulkier overhand knot is usually
       easier to untie after sustained cyclical loads.


































       A doubled-over cordellette or long sling with knots
       can configure the quad. By clipping three of the
       four master point strands, a failure of one anchor
       point will not result in total failure.
       50       CLIMBING: KNOTS
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