Page 68 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"

CHAPTER 6

Using the Rope to
Belay

hen belaying, climbers either coordinate the
W rope with some sort of belay/rappel device
and a locking carabiner, or they rely on a belay hitch
(the Munter hitch) and a locking carabiner. This pat-
tern is entirely appropriate, so there are a number
of knots that all belayers need to learn in order to
perform belay tasks completely. Any belayer should
know how to close a belay device in order to let go
of the brake hand, and there are a few different knots
that will allow him/her to do this. Any belayer also
should know how use a Munter hitch, as it is an effec-
tive belay, requires minimal equipment, and provides a
smooth and effective way for belayers to move a rope
in both directions (taking in slack and lowering).

Going Hands Free on a Plate/
Aperture/Tuber Belay Device

An ATC, a Reverso, and any number of other plate
belay devices (including the original Sticht plate)
require a fairly tricky knot known as the mule knot.
Traditionally, the mule knot has been tied in a con-
figuration that avoids the spine of the attachment cara-
biner. As a result, it is cumbersome to tie and difficult
to reduce in a precise manner. The following version
of the mule knot avoids those difficulties entirely, but

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