Page 69 - Nate Fitch, Ron Funderburke "Climbing Knots"
P. 69

the initial slipknot functions best when the attachment
       carabiner is an adequately sized HMS or pear-shaped
       locking carabiner.
          If tied correctly, the mule knot tends to constrict
       upon itself and will break in front of the initial slip-
       knot only at very high loads. As a result, it is a reliable
       and secure way for a belayer to secure a climber when
       the brake hand is needed to perform some auxiliary
       task.





















                                     Mule knot for a
                                     plate/aperture
                                     belay device.








                                    Carefully pull a
                                    bight of the brake
                                    strand through
                                    the locking
                                    carabiner.
       56       CLIMBING: KNOTS
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