Page 47 - DIVA1 2026

culture

clear day, its peak, crowned with a huge viewing «it has historically been isolated,
tower (meteo station), can be spotted from a large
part of Switzerland and several neighbouring creating a strong, independent,
countries. And there is also life among those and sometimes conservative
cliffs (such as Aescher, which after being on the
cover of National Geographic, became a hotspot culture and capsule that resisted
for visitors; but it is not that easily accessible and changes.»
requires hiking through another time capsule
– the 400-year-old Wildkirchli chapel high up
inside the cliff).

This place is only 40 min away from vibrant Zürich,
but thanks to all the above, it has historically
been isolated, creating a strong, independent, consider indeed «bizarre». We were surprised
and sometimes conservative culture and capsule to learn that this tradition is almost unknown
that resisted changes. But Appenzelland is in Geneva, where many people have never even
also a place that looks to the future, while not heard of it. It is not particularly well known in
forgetting the past. The traditions are alive, and Zürich, either, nor in the rest of Switzerland.
at the same time, the two cantons Appenzell While preparing for our visit, we discovered that
Innerrhoden and Appenzell Ausserrhoden are it attracts connoisseurs from all over the world
open to innovation and change. who are interested in ‘du jamais vu’, or truly
singular, authentic events. People come from as
If you hear or read from outsiders that it is the far as the US and Australia to experience it, and
most bizarre place, know that this is not true. This we went too, to provide you with a first-hand
means that they do not understand it or its strong account.
(and not always conservative) determination
to preserve its identity and traditions. Some This event takes place once a year on New Year’s
features are timeless, while others hark back to Eve, i.e. 31 December and 13 January according
the past. They have existed for centuries and, to the Gregorian and Julian calendars. It is called
despite rapid development in many areas of life, ‘Chlausenschüppel’. It probably dates back to the
there are things that the people of these cantons Middle Ages, perhaps the 15th or 16th century,
do not want to change; they will remain as they or earlier, but only became known five centuries
were centuries ago. These features are important ago when Appenzell became part of the Swiss
to the people living there: they represent their Confederation. The earliest written mention
independence, their way of thinking, their of ‘Silvesterchläuse’ is in the ‘moral mandates’
understanding of direct democracy, and their of 1663. There are various theories about how
way of life. It is more than just a place; it is a the tradition began. Some associate it with an
symbol of what Switzerland represents: a mosaic ancient fertility cult, while others believe it is
of cultures, traditions, and political systems that connected with the Carnival of the Devil, and
together form a unique national identity. This there are other theories. What is it? Prepare to
fusion of ancient and modern is reflected in every see something truly extraordinary. Be there very
aspect of local life. In the current global context, early, as it starts at 5 am, when a group of spirits
where local identities are often under threat or masked Mummers come out of the forest and
from cultural homogenization, the Appenzellers travel through the villages, going from house
set an example by showing how it is possible to house and farm to farm. Nobody knows
to maintain cultural roots and enhance their where they will go next, so listen carefully to the
heritage while integrating into an ever-changing bells to help you determine where the group of
world. Mummers will go next. They usually travel in
groups of six, all wearing masks and different
Visiting Appenzelland means immersing sets of bells. Their routes are precise and known
yourself in a unique, timeless world where only to them, and the order within the group is
every corner tells a story, and every encounter strictly established. There are three main types
brings new discoveries. And we invite you to of Mummers, but note that it is rare to see all
join us in experiencing a tradition that many three.

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