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he production of textiles is one of the most training. Producers are encouraged to develop
Timportant processes that contribute to their practices further by striving to meet
pollution in the world. improvement indicators, reflecting the
fundamental concept of continuous improvement
Sustainability is the buzz word these last couple in BCI initiatives.
of years, starting in the late 1990's. In South
Africa the Cleaner Production (CP) project, The ideas and expectations of both projects are
sponsored by DANCED (Denmark) was launched basically the same. The question arises as to
in 2002 and ended in 2004. which programme is most
successful and why. Where
Water, energy and chemical it was found that SMMEs
use, container manage- had very little success with
ment, staff training, vehicle CP, small-holder cotton
use and maintenance, soil farmers on the other hand
management as well as dust were successful in obtaining
and soil waste generation, BCI approval.
were the core issues for CP.
Cleaner production assess- The success of CP can be
ments helped the industry to seen in the change and
better understand how types amendments of a
of waste are generated and how much waste country's legislation dealing with all industries.
related costs could be reduced. It also touched The outcome of the CP project was the creation
on ecolabels and the production of organic cotton of a national programme hosted by the CSIR
based on organic standards. The CP did not only (the National Cleaner Production Centre (NCPC-
investigate the textile industry but also included SA)) on behalf of the Department of Trade and
other sectors like pulp and Industry. The programme
paper, leather, chemicals, promotes the implemen-
food, metals, plastic and tation of Resource Efficiency
rubber. and Cleaner Production
(RECP) methodologies to
Around 2014 a new initiative assist industry to lower
came about in South Africa, costs through reduced
namely the Cotton Cluster. energy, water and materials
Again sustainability, coupled usage, and waste manage-
with traceability, amongst ment.
others, was the centre of this
project. Part of the Cotton Cluster was the On the other hand, BCI is a voluntary programme
introduction of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) without legislation but closely monitored with
which is also an international project with Cotton SA acting as the South African
countries like India, Pakistan and Mozambique implementing partner. A growing number of local
also participating. The BCI principles and criteria cotton farmers (large, medium and small) have
cover the most significant global issues adopted the BCI standards and according to the
associated with cotton production and the BCI's assessments have obtained BCI compliancy.
theory of change, calls for transformation of the
cotton production sector towards sustainability Together with their field-level partners, BCI
from the farm to the retailer. reduces barriers for smallholder farmers,
enabling them to produce cotton more
The core indicators of BCI are, amongst others, sustainably though ongoing support and capacity
standards for crop protection and pesticide use, building. Participation is voluntary; cotton
soil health and structure, water management, farmers make their own informed decisions to
decent work ethics, biodiversity enhancement participate in the BCI programme, and then
and land use, fibre quality, record keeping and commit to a process of continuous improvement.
20 Helena Claassens - Cotton SA
