Page 163 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots
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A  History  of  Life  Support Knots         153
        reference  to this knot in this application in the climbing literature.
            Readers of  the  Journal were informed  that the Overhand Loop  (Fig. 1)
        is  'one  of  those  [knots] which most  weakens the rope'  and it was  mentioned
        only  'in  order  that  no-one  may  imitate  it1.  I  do  not  know  what  evidence
        convinced  the members  of  the  Special Committee  that  the  Overhand  Loop
        was so weak,  since they  also say 'how  great  a loss of  strength results from a
        knot we cannot undertake to estimate'.  This is the first of  many complaints by
        British  climbers over the next  hundred years  or so that the Overhand Loop,
        so favoured by  Alpine guides, was unsatisfactory,  because  of  either weakness
        or a  tendency  to jam  under  load.  Swiss guides in  particular  continue  to use
        the knot to this day:  indeed, it is known as the  'nceud de guide'.  They claim
        that in  actual practice  the rope never seems to break  at that point.  Quite a
        number  of  climbing manuals, though few from  Britain, still recommend  this
        knot, both as end loop and as mid loop because  of  its simplicity and ease of
        use.








          Fig. 3. Fishermans Knot   Fig. 4.  Fishermans Loop   Fig. 5.  Overhand Noose
            It is noteworthy that the illustrations of  both the Fishermans Knot and
        the Fishermans  Loop have  discordant  Overhand  Knots:  i.e.  they are of  op-
        posite  handedness.  A brief  note  in  the following  number  of  the  Journal  [8]
        recommends  the Fishermans Loop as a mid loop, and describes how to tie it
        in  the bight  without  using  the  ends  and finish  with  the Overhands  concor-
        dant. All subsequent illustrations by British climbers of  the Fishermans Knot
        and Loop have  concordant  Overhands  (as shown  in  my  drawings,  Figs  3,4),
        though only a few comment on it. However, Wright and Magowan [34] showed
        by tests that the concordant knots are stronger than the discordant, as is now
        generally held by most knot tiers.
            Mountaineers,  especially  in  Britain,  started  to gain  practice  for  alpine
        expeditions by climbing local rock outcrops, without guides. This became the
        start of  rock climbing as a separate sport. Some people who had no intention,
        or  no  opportunity,  to visit  the  Alps  took  up  rock  climbing,  and  the  sport
        became  more  democratic in  its membership,  attracting  many  working-class
        people.  The use  of  a  rope on  British  rock  was  regarded  initially  as almost
        unsporting and did not become common until the 1890s. Even then, the rope
        was not tied on to anchorages, just  held in the hands of  the person supposedly
        safeguarding the climber, though it was sometimes passed round a rock knob.
        Once into the twentieth  century, however, the use of  a rope became universal
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