Page 165 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots
P. 165

A History of Life Support Knots             155

       stated that the knots were in actual use by mountaineers in any application.
       They did not recommend the knots specifically, and they will not be further
       discussed here.
           This report [2] seems to be the first mention of what became something of
       an obsession amongst British mountaineers-the claimed advantage of tying all
       knots `with the lay of the rope'. Unfortunately, there seems to be considerable
       disagreement about what constitutes `with the lay', though everyone agreed
       that knots should be tied that way. Wright and Magowan [34] discussed this
       point at length; to them, the phrase seems to mean that any twists and turns
       of the rope within the knot should have the opposite handedness to the lay of
       the rope.
           Climbing down a cliff or other difficult slope is often more difficult, more
       dangerous and much slower than climbing up. If any substantial height needs
       to be down-climbed, it is a considerable advantage to use the climbing rope to
       descend, putting all or part of the weight on the rope and controlling the rate
       of descent by friction against the rope. There are reports that this method
       was in wide use in the Chamonix area by the
       1870s. The first record of using friction to slow
       a descent on a mountain seems to have been
       on the way down from a climb of Mont Blanc
       by de Saussure in 1787. The climber glissaded
       down the slope, sitting on the rope anchored at
       the top and held tight at the bottom. The rope
       passed between the legs and over an alpenstock
                                g
       held 'across the body  at thi h level.  Friction
       could be increased and the climber slowed by
       raising the alpenstock or increasing the tension
       on the rope [6]. Sailors, firemen and the like
       have long used ropes for a quick descent, but
       climbers have need for much longer descents,
       often under more difficult conditions, so that
                                                     Fig. 8. Classic Abseil
       they have developed novel techniques, calling
       the activity `abseiling' from the German or `rapelling' from the French. The
       arrangements of the rope may be called `flowing hitches' (see below). All
       techniques before World War II involved braking with friction round parts
       of the body, such as the thigh, arms or trunk [5],[18],[27]. Braking on the
       body alone is now rare (see later) but is still used for quick short descents and
       for emergencies where no extraneous equipment is available. The commonest
       method still in use (Fig. 8) is usually called the Classic Abseil [10, p. 142],[14,
       p. 159]. It is a variant of a technique practised in Chamonix in the 1920s [5].
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