Page 164 - J. C. Turner - History and Science of Knots
P. 164

154                     History and Science of Knots

          and more and more use was made of anchorages , initially with just a turn or
          two round natural rock knobs and chockstones . When knots were used, they
          were just standard hitches which I will not discuss further. Knots and rope
          techniques developed in pure rock climbing were, when suitable, adopted in
          general mountaineering and vice versa.
              Some caves are more or less horizontal and can be explored by scram-
          bling and crawling only, without need of ropes. Other caves have vertical
          sections; at first tackled with ladders and winches and needing only very basic
          knotting. Yet other caves include steep and difficult terrain ; rock climbing
          techniques were adopted, often with minor modifications for the different con-
          ditions. However , it was a long time before cavers developed any special knots
          not already in use by climbers.











               Fig. 6. Bowline and Half Hitch      Fig. 7. Figure Eight Tie
              The second report of the Special Committee of the Alpine Club [2] gives
          the (first account of the Bowline used for climbing (Fig. 6). Note that the
          running end is secured to the nearby leg of the loop with a Half Hitch. All
          early climbing manuals that mention the Bowline stress the need for this, and
          all manuals published after the introduction of nylon rope stress the necessity
          for securing the end in some way, as discussed later, but some manuals written
          between the Wars omit this point. However Wright and Magowan [34], in one
          of the best accounts of climbing knots ever written , discuss the tendency of the
          Bowline to `spring loose', of the end to `spring out', and recommend having
          a long end, which is twisted round the adjacent leg of the loop several times
          and fastened with one or two Half Hitches. They recommended that the twists
          and Half Hitches should have a handedness opposite to that of the turn of the
          Bowline. The Committee [2] also recommended the Fishermans Loop (Fig. 4)
          for a mid loop and the Fishermans Knot (Fig. 3 ) for temporarily bending two
          ropes of the same size together, but a Figure Eight Tie (Fig. 7) for joining
          two ropes for prolonged security. This Figure Eight Tie is made by the follow-
          through or reweaving technique , making a simple Figure Eight Knot in the
          end of one rope and then following all of its turns with the other end. This
          method of tying is used for quite a number of climbing knots (see later), though
          it is uncommon in general knotting. They also tested several other knots, said
          to be `likely to be of interest and importance to mountaineers', but it is not
   159   160   161   162   163   164   165   166   167   168   169