Page 313 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice
P. 313

from a combination of sources, including salt, heat,   Choosing a Foundry
                  loading, and from internal, literally built-in stresses
                  like bad tempering or uneven cold-working.     Have bronze castings done by a foundry specializ-
                      Sometimes the cracks are vertical, or radiate   ing in bronze; they’ll know which type of bronze is
                  out from a single point. These are usually caused by   best suited to your application, and will be pickier
                                                                 about ingredients and proportions than a gener-
                  simple overloading. Vertical cracks on swages are a   al-purpose foundry.
                  common example of this; wire rope inside the swage
                  expands with corrosion from moisture, pressing out-
                  wards on the walls of the swage until it cracks. Some   Minimizing Halyard Fatigue
                  sailors try to prevent this problem by pouring oil or
                  hot wax down their lower swages. It doesn’t seem to   To avoid accelerated wire fatigue, never let a
                  make any difference, since water will migrate past   splice, Nicopress sleeve, or other terminal get
                  anything but an adhesive put in under pressure, as   within two inches of a sheave or fairlead.
                  one gets with Sta-Lok-type terminals. But at least
                  the attempt at pouring something in makes more   Rigs with swaged terminals are among the most
                  sense than another fix I’ve seen: tightening a hose  susceptible to failures; frequent inspections are nec-
                  clamp around a cracked swage, to hold it together.  essary to ensure their integrity. If the strands of a
                  Obviously it pays to invest in high-quality stain-  wire rope do not lead fairly into a swaged termi-
                  less and to make it plenty heavy, to delay the onset  nal; if there is evidence of corrosion, especially at
                  of fatigue. Bronze is nearly impervious to fatigue,  the top of the terminal; or if the terminal is cracked
                  which is why it is so often used in toggles, turnbuck-  or warped, no matter how slightly, it is of uncertain
                  les, tangs, and chainplates. Galvanized steel is like-  integrity and should be replaced at once. Swages
                  wise relatively fatigue-resistant, so if you can keep it  are the overwhelmingly favorite choice for sailboat
                  from rusting, it will outlast stainless. the size of the  terminals because of their low cost, neat, compact
                  stainless wire, but this will also involve increasing  appearance, and high initial tensile strength. But
                  the sheave size. Can of worms.               they are not to be trusted.
                      When rigging wire fatigues, its strands will begin   When swages fatigue, they’ll crack, too. Again,
                  breaking. Note that a single broken yarn in 1 x 19  this can also be caused by internal corrosion—the
                  wire reduces strength by more than 5 percent. Wires  corroded wire expands, trying to split the swage
                  will usually break first at the lower ends of standing  apart (Figure 7-28). Cracked swages can survive for
                  rigging, where corrosion and fatigue work together.  years or days. Replace any wire that has a cracked
                  But check both ends and all the wire between, just  swage on it immediately, unless you enjoy that sort
                  in case. Fatigue can be reduced by increasing wire  of gamble. A horizontal crack is always more dan-
                  size, but again this is not always practicable, espe-  gerous than a vertical one. Use a magnifying glass
                  cially for racers, as it increases weight aloft. It’s usu-  or dye penetrant to spot fine cracks. Check the eye
                  ally better to use an appropriately sized wire (see  as well as the barrel of the fitting. Some swages are
                  “Selecting Wire,” Chapter 5) and to employ other  made by a rotary swager, which hammers the fitting
                  fatigue-reducing strategies. The easiest one is the  rapidly from all angles, making a smooth-finished
                  addition of toggles. Put one at either end of each  surface. If you see a lengthwise ridge on the barrel of
                  turnbuckle or buy turnbuckles with built-in toggles.  the swage, it was formed by passing it between the
                  Add another toggle at the wire’s upper end, particu-  dies of a Kearney swager. Kearney swages are far
                  larly on stays with sails hanked to them, as these are  more likely to crack, and frequently end up with a
                  most heavily worked. And keep your rigging snugly  disquieting banana shape. Don’t use them.
                  tuned so that sailing motions won’t cause your mast   Hayn and Sta-Lok fittings are the best mechan-
                  to bang around, shock-loading your wires.    ical terminals—right up there with splices in terms

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