Page 314 - The Complete Rigger’s Apprentice

Figure 7-28. A cracked swage.

of trustworthiness. They’re screwed onto the wire, Survey of a 34-foot Cutter
which means there are no hammer- or die-induced Starting at the top:
stresses. And they’re reusable, so when you re-rig
you only need to buy wire, not terminals. 1. Topping lift block has unmoused shackle.
The above is by no means a complete list of Shackle pin is upside down.
things to look for, but it gives you an idea of how Here’s one you can fix right away, assuming
free-ranging and inclusive a survey mentality must you brought along some nippers and a length
be. To give you an idea of how this might translate of seizing wire.
into reality, a sample survey follows. It’s a bit of a
flaw collage, excerpted from several vessels. If the 2. Recommend spare halyard at masthead.
number and severity of flaws seem high, bear two An extra halyard is good as a safety when
points in mind: (1) A moderately run-down rig and going aloft (see “Living Aloft” earlier in this
one in good condition will have roughly the same chapter) or as a backup in case you lose one of
number of notations; as you fix big problems, you the regular halyards. Ideally, it will be placed so
start noting smaller ones. (2) Assuming the mast it can substitute for jib, main, or even spinnaker
is still standing, the list of things that are okay is halyard. Affix the block to the side of the mast
always longer still. and reeve it with a length of flag halyard line.
This way you avoid weight and windage aloft
Hacksawing Wire Rope from a full-size rope, as well as UV degradation
of that rope. When the time comes, you can
The slowest, most frustrating way to cut wire rope easily seize a real rope to the end of the light
is with a hacksaw—unless you tape firmly on stuff and pull it through. Meanwhile, you’ve got
either side of the cut mark, then clamp the wire
in a vise. Then hacksawing is fast, and leaves a a flag halyard at the masthead.
far cleaner edge than shears do. Use bi-metal or
carbide blades: 18 teeth per inch (tpi) will make 3. Jib halyard sheave not turning.
quick work of most wire rope; 24 tpi leaves a sig-
nificantly smoother edge, and is not much slower. The sheave sides probably just need a
Be sure to tension the blade moderately light sanding. If main and jib sheaves share
firmly; it doesn’t need to be twanging tight, but the same axle pin, secure both sheaves with
it shouldn’t wobble in the cut. Try orienting the
blade so that it cuts on the pull stroke. This way
the blade tightens, rather than loosens, during the Surveying a Hook
cutting stroke. I find that it is also easier to steer.
A clean edge isn’t important if you’re splicing, Hooks are unlikely to break, but they can
but it makes the wire nice to work with, and it straighten under heavy loads. The interior curve
makes a lot of difference when you’re assembling of a hook should match the radius of a circle. If
Sta-Loks or similar terminals. there’s any evidence of distortion, junk that hook.

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