Page 154 - Arabia the Gulf and the West
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Tribal Rebellion, Marxist Revolution                                   151


           assorted folies des grandeurs. At irregular intervals new plans were unveiled

           with elaborate flourishes by the sultan’s government, most of which were fated
           to moulder thereafter in their pigeon-holes. As with much governmental activ­
           ity elsewhere in Arabia, the promulgation of intentions was held to be
           synonymous with their accomplishment. To sift fact from fantasy in estimating
           what has been achieved in any of the oil states of Arabia is no easy task, and it is
           not made easier by the plethora of uncritical reporting of these achievements by
           Western newspapers, which have made a minor industry out of the issuing of

           endless special supplements in which the feats of development and vast finan­
           cial expenditures of these states are fulsomely catalogued.
              Thus we are told of Oman in the years since Qabus ibn Said came to power
           that whereas in 1970 there were only three primary schools in the country with
           900 pupils, by 1977 210 primary schools and forty-five secondary schools had
           been built, and 61,500 pupils (a quarter of them girls) enrolled in them. In 1970
           there was only one hospital, the American Mission Hospital at Matrah. Now
           there are thirteen hospitals, eleven health centres and forty-two dispensaries
           and clinics. Where before there were only dusty tracks straggling through the

           mountains and plains, now there are hundreds of miles of tar-sealed highways —
           from Muscat up the Batinah coast to Sauhar, from Sauhar through the Wadi
           al-Jizzi to the Buraimi oasis, from Buraimi to Ibri, and from Nizwa through the
           Wadi Samail to Muscat. A new deep-water harbour, Mina Qabus, has been
           built at Matrah and an international airport a few miles up the coast at Sib. A
           new town, Madinat Qabus, has been created in the Ruwi valley, next door to

           Matrah, and the sultan has acquired a couple of splendid new palaces, one at
           Muscat and the other at Sib. An elaborate electricity generating system and
           desalination plant have been constructed to supply Muscat, Matrah and
           adjacent areas.
              Where perhaps the largest expenditures have occurred has been in the
           expansion and equipment of the armed forces and the police. By one of the
           numerous ironies in which the modern Gulf abounds, Oman, with fewer oil
           revenues than most of the oil states, has been the only one that has had to
           expend its revenues in suppressing insurrection. Yet the type and nature of

           Oman’s military expenditure have not been entirely dictated by operational
           necessities, or by the particular demands of the Dhufar campaign. There are
           also requirements of face which have had to be satisfied. Qabus ibn Said, after
           all, enjoys the style and dignity of ‘sultan’ in his own and the world’s eyes. He
           is, by this token, a cut above the shaikhs and amirs of the lesser Gulf states,
           more of the company, if not exactly the equal, of the king of Saudi Arabia and
           me former shah of Persia. While his resources might fall short of theirs, he has
             y his lights a royal obligation to make a passable show of armed might. To
           these considerations must be added the fact that Qabus has been heavily

           importuned by the Western powers, and by Britain in particular, to purchase
           the trappings of modern military power. So, in addition to small arms
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